Honing advice - how to get a sharper edge?

Throwing this into the honing mix:
Anyone had experience with the Atoma 400 or 1200 for lapping stones (vs the DMT 325)?

I've been doing some research and the consensus seems to be BOTH plates have their advocates; with possibly a few more favoring there Atomas for both durability and smoothness/levelness of results.
I've been using the DMT325, which has a good rep; tends to stick quite a bit (plenty of running water helps here). The Atomas cost a bit more, but supposedly will outlast the DMTs.

Atoma 400 diamond plate

Atoma 1200


DMT 325

 

I've heard good things about the Atomas as well. I do love my dmt 325 but it's wearing a bit already. It's a workhorse on my bench.

 

I like my DMT….but it is showing signs of wear as well. I don't mind paying the extra $$ if the atomas plate last longer and does the job equal to or better than my current plate.

 

I actually scored a deal on a 140 grit diamond plate for 30 bucks off of some site recently. It's harsh but good for the harder stones.

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/140grdistflp.html

 

Seems like chasing the proverbial Bigger Better Deal to me. The Atoma 400 is about twice the price of the DMT 325, so unless it outlasts 2 DMT8C plates I don't see the economic sense. And the DMTs already seem pretty darn flat, so I'd doubt claims of any practical gains in terms of efficacy. But that's just my tuppence of course...call me Thomas if you like.

 

Thx, that's where I bought my 12K. Good folks

 

Get both! DMT for lapping the lower grits; Atoma 1200 for lapping the finishers…
There's always an excuse to get more stuff!

The Atomas, as I understand it, are faster and some claim, smoother cutters—however, I'm not in the honing biz, so speed of production is of secondary concern.
The durability of my investment is of greater importance for this home honer….

 

Nailed it. Ditto for me. My DMT is also showing signs of wear. The Atoma is the likely replacement.

 

Well that'd certainly be one approach! It's early days with me still, but I'm only using the Diamond plate for lapping. Truing up the stones initially did impart a bit of wear, but after the grid lapping I've just been doing a few laps whenever I start on a hone, and that doesn't seem to wearing the DMT very fast at all; and I'm hoping that with good stropping the edges won't need to go on a stone all that often. Hopefully, at the rate I'm using it at least, the DMT plate'll last a few years at a minimum.

 

I should find the pic of my DMT hehehe trust me here, your DMT's are not worn
The Atoma is probably a better lapping plate, the DMT 325 is a more useful all around tool..

I asked this exact question some time back, after hearing how good the 400 was for lapping but was told after everyone saw the pics of my DMT and what I use them for to not buy the Atoma

So passing on the same advice as I received,,

For only lapping get the Atoma
For everything including Lapping, Heel, and Edge restoration get the DMT 325


here is the old thread over on SRP if you want to read

 

Thanks, Glen. I actually found that thread some time ago and got me on the whole Atoma quest.

So I already have the DMT & plan on keeping it for lapping, blade restoration/repair. Is there an advantage to using a 'higher grit' lapping plate (Atoma 1200) on the finishers vs the coarser DMT? I've seen some debate on this (no surprise!)…..

BTW: here are two Atoma 1200 pics under magnification. little clumps of diamond:
5x:


50x:

 

I used to think so, in fact I was obsessive about it (No surprise there either)

I stopped when I bought the Shaptons and the stupidly expensive DGLP

The highest proved grit hone on the market is the Shapton 30k and they recommend using their 325 grit plate..
That was the end of it all for me I use my well worn DMT 325 on most everything or the DGLP on some of the sticky hones like Naniwas and hone razors...

The only time I strive for higher is on Oil stones and on Barber hones

 

Okay, this makes practical sense. I'll keep with the DMT until further notice. My wife will be happy to hear this. "Look, honey, I saved us $100!"…..

 

...Until you find another plate or stone that you want.

Which is inevitable.

 

Ain't that the truth!?

 

Last night I honed a razor — a Union Cutlery 'Spike' razor—that was in good shape, but had no keenness to the edge (non-sticky on the thumb pad). The result from my honing efforts? The sharpest, keenest edge I've ever put on a razor in my short history of honing!

What'd I do differently?
Here's my sequence:

• Setting the Bevel with the Chosera 1k with light slurry— I spent the most time at this stage. 40 small circles (with some downward pressure); followed by 15 laps and 15 x-strokes, alternating every 5. Under magnification, I could see areas where the bevel was weaker (the toe and keel on both sides). I went back and focused on those areas, with a finger on that particular spot and pushed the edge repeatedly; checked the progress under the loupe all during this process until the edge was consistent all across the blade, on both sides. To achieve uniformity on the blade took several tries going back & forth from hone to loupe.*** Another 40 small circles, with slurry diluted with water, followed by 15 laps and 15 x-strokes, alternating every 5—continuing to dilute with water. Thumb-pad test: Stickiness from toe to heel.
***I stopped counting the touch-up laps and went by feel at this point.

• Sharpening: Norton 4k with slurry created by DMT—40 small circles (lighter pressure than with the bevel set), followed by 15 laps and 15 x-strokes, alternating every 5. Checked under loupe—looking good! Another 40 small circles, very watered-down slurry, followed by 15 laps and 15 x-strokes, alternating every 5—until I finished with water.
Norton 8k with no slurry—40 small circles (very lighter pressure, weight of blade), 30 laps and 30 x-strokes, alternating every 5. All done very lightly on water. Thumb pad Test: Very sticky from toe to heel.

• Finishing/Polishing: Apache Strata stone with a slurry created with a small thuringian stone. 30 laps and x-strokes, diluting with water as I progressed through the laps. A final 30 laps & x-strokes with just water. Thumb pad test: Sticky, sticky, sticky—where you know you'll be cut if you're not careful! Arm hairs popping off silently at the 'tree top' level.

• Stropping: 12 laps on a Chromium Oxide-pasted bench strop; followed by 50 laps of linen, 100 laps on leather.

• Shave: This is what a good SR shave should feel like! No pulling or tugging, just a blade gliding through the lather leaving my face silky smooth!

So there's no secret voodoo or 'special' magic to getting a good shaving edge. Having decent hones is vey helpful, but the key is what the honer is doing.
If you are methodical and pay attention to how the edge looks and feels throughout the process, you're bound to get decent results!

 

What did you do differently ?????

Well sir you have been honing, and honing a lot and here is a simple fact that many overlook or choose to ignore..

The more different razors you hone, the better you get... What a concept

 

Truth.^^

My skills at honing have increased parallel to the variety (and quantity) of blades I've seen so far.

 

theres no replacement for experience!

 

Did two more razors yesterday (two comparable 5/8 C-Mons) on the Apache finisher. Same progression a before but this time only used water, no slurry build-up on the apache.
Very sticky (TPT) results and arm hairs popped across the blade edge, from toe to heel. Personally, I believe the favorable results may have more to do with my improving bevel-setting skills on the new Chosera than exclusively due to the finisher. Whatever the reason, I've been very happy with the results. A great comfortable shave off one of the C-Mons last night.