Honing School - Honemeisters & Newbies Unite!

Well my edge never really came around so back to the bevel set.

Forgot about the sharpie on the edge, definitely going to give that a try!

Question for the gurus out there Should I kill the edge before trying from bevel again?

Thanks all!

 

Well today ended up being a very busy day for me. spent most of the day helping the parents. I didn't get to my honing like I hoped that I would, but I did get all my hones grid lapped and flat so I will be ready to hone another day. I soaked all my Naniwa stones for at least 10 minutes before grid lapping them and my king for 40 minutes before grid lapping it. as I am typing I'm waiting on my 10K, 12K and the King to finish drying so I can put them away for the night.

 

It's up to you. I would, just lightly, then make sure the entire edge is sharp before moving on. Try taking it to the 3k first, and concentrating on the area that is problematic more. Sometimes a certain area of a bevel takes a little longer.

 

I would sharpie the edge To see if it is making full contact along the bevel. Most of the time when it’s not making good contact it is due to wear or possibly a warp of the edge or spine. With just starting out honing it is very easy to lift the spine off the stone accidentally, or over pressure. To help avoid the lifting of the spine have plenty of room and keep your wrist and forearm close to level with the hone.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. I was definitely having some trouble with maintaining contact etc.

 

FYI, I'm having trouble with one right now. There was a spot near the center that just wouldn't get there. It took time, but it finally happened. Some blades are just a PITA, but eventually they should come around. Unless the temper has been compromised, or if they are from Pakistan. Also, most of us are dealing with 100+ year old blades, and no telling how much they had been abused, or why they were abandoned, long ago.

 

My "victim" is a Torrey that was previously sharp and ended up getting a light dusting of rust on it due to poor storage...total new guy move...stored it in a leather 7 day holder and it didn't get enough room to breath...I oiled everything but that didn't cut it. Live and learn.

Thanks again all!

 

I had that happen to one of mine when I left it in the cabinet under the sink with my honed that were recently used, I started using a good gun oil and remembering not to put any razors under the sink with wet hones. So far that’s the only one that has ever gotten rust on it.

 

Took the Torrey down today with the soft Arkansas, and using the sharpie and some different strokes was able to get a nice even bevel going. I took it up to almost finish and then flubbed it, got sloppy and killed the edge. Back to the lower grits, practice makes perfect.

Also the holding the stone in my hand seemed to work in getting a feel for the right stroke. Thanks for the tips guys!

 

Got my day started right today. Took an old Torrey to the hones and worked on my technique. I suspect just like shaving technique, my honing technique will probably improve in small increments over a period of time. When I joined the 30DC, I thought getting a irritation fee, weeper free shave with a DE razor may be out of reach. Then day by day you improve little by little until you wake up and realize that you were in a hurry and did a quick 3 pass, 2 minute shave with a Fatboy on 7 loaded with a new feather and posted it as simply a “routine, drama free shave”.

After honing the Torrey from bevel set on up, I can tell I’m learning. Less so from my final results than from getting the “feeling” of what I’m doing more. I’m also really starting to understand the reasons for using different strokes and am able to confirm the results I expect to achieve under the microscope. I also realize my honing technique still needs time and experience to get really solid and consistent. This morning the final result was that blade was sharp enough to shave with for 3 passes, and my technique is certainly good enough now to touch up blades without fear (which was the goal), but I’m gonna put some of my eBay razors on hold now and develop my straight shaving techniques before venturing deeper in the honing rabbit hole. Until I can achieve a close (approaching BBS), irritation free shave consistently with a straight I want to make sure I’m using only sharp blades and professionally set bevels. Once I get to that point, I’ll be better equipped to evaluate my own honing skills

In the meantime I’m looking forward to hearing more honing stories and Q&A on this thread.

 

Good to hear that you are making progress on your honing. There are quite a few ah ha moments as you get better and defeat different issues on various blades. And congratulations on embracing the dark side.

 

Shaved today with my Hart which came to me very sharp from @Keithmax. Since purchasing, I have been stropping and doing occasional refreshes by stropping with Chromium Oxide. This razor is definitely sharper than the Torrey I just honed.

OK, I know I’ve still got a ton to learn, but based on what I do know, I think I’m doing things correctly, and am able to see the scratch pattern get finer and finer as I move up each stone. I’m able to verify this under the microscope across the whole bevel, so I know I’m getting all of the bevel against the hone. What would be the first thing anyone would look for as to why this razor isn’t sharp enough? Is there a way to know for sure you set the bevel correctly? Anything other than the scratch pattern to look for?

I am open to thoughts and suggestions.

 

Try cutting your pressure in half (or more). As far as bevel set, you can usually tell by looking with a loupe, if the bevels don't meet you can see it if the light's right.

The way I set a bevel is by visual inspection, then after the midgrit, usually 4k or 5k, I do a 10/20 canvas/leather strop and test HTT along the entire edge. If it cuts hair easily at 4-5k there's no doubt that the bevel is perfectly set.

Cheers, Steve

 

Now, when you say "Cuts Hair easily, at 4-5k", what kind of cutting are your referring to?? Shaving arm hair, tree topping arm hairs, or Hanging Hair Test(HHT)??

 

HHT.

Cheers, Steve

 

Experimentation and luck? I’m not the best honer, maybe intermediate at best. Here is my view which could be wrong too

If the bevel is not set nothing else matters, it cuts it is just because the edge is raggeded.

The finishing stones and paste change the feel and degree of sharpness. If I stop at 12k the edge is not as sharp as if I finish with my Shapton glass 16k or Gokyumo 20k. I don’t completely believe the grit ratings as the Shapton feels like it produces a sharper edge.

Light pressure and don’t over hone on the finishing stone.

Some razors just don’t take very well to the high grit stones. One of life’s mysteries.

Try adding FeOx after the CrO2.

I prefer the tree topping arm hair test, although I also tree top leg hair too. My woman wanted to know if a had skin disease because of the blad patches on my arm.

 

Keith that is a disease called honers mange. I have found a cure for it! Treetop 1-2 hairs from different parts of your arm along the length of the blade. “Disclaimer” But that cure only works for this of us who hone or refresh as needed, depending on the size of said honers collection,

Baylor I would have to agree that the most likely cause would be over pressure as you move up in stones.

 

Too funny "honers mange" ! Awesome!

My wife was bothering me because the back of my left hand is pretty shaved...I told her not too worry the right would soon follow. :-P

 

I can’t take credit for the term honers mange, I heard it from glen in one of his videos and found it hilarious too.

 

Maybe you guys can help I’m having issues with full wedges. I get shave-able smooth edges with my JNat but I feel like I can get a lot sharper. I’m having issues at bevel set with these where it looks like the bevel is set but I don’t feel like it’s at 100% potential. I tend to over hone my wedges because I feel like the razor doesn’t want to shave very well. Once I’m done full progression they shave great.... but I’m now looking for awesome. I tend to rehone a lot of full wedges not because they need it but because I get them sharper but still smooth. I just don’t feel like I should be doing that though. Keep in mind anything from half hollow to extra hollow I’m good with. Just near wedge to full wedge I have issues with.


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