Inexpensive Straights, Hones, Strops, etc. for Beginners.

I think what you are referring to is a DMT which is a flat plate impregnated with diamonds. With a new hone the tag is to get it very flat, so pencil grid on the hone and then under water or under running water rub the DMT and the hone together until the grid lines are gone and then if it was out by much d that a second time. Often in the dining videos what you are seeing is the hone is being cleaned of all the swarf using a DMT. All they are doing is cleaning the hone so the surface has all fresh parties and cuts quickly and evenly. It also helps to maintain the flatness of the hone.

 

What does DMT stand for?

 

I think it is a brand name that has become used as a generic terms for a diamond lapping plate. They are relatively easy to find, as a brand. If you google DMT plate it will bring up a lot of relevant hits. They are also available at Lee Valley, amongst many other sources. You can dump a ton of cash on lapping plates quite easily, some brands are very expensive, but not needed.

 

Well, I have had my head spinning on what to use as a lapping/flattening stone/plate, or DMT. I will need one for both my natural stones, and manmade stones. Sooo much to decide on.
In the meantime, my #3000/#8000 stone desperately needed flattening and cleaning(I think the taped spines darken the stones). I placed the stones on some flat glass and c countertops, they didn't seem totally flat.
Someone here mentioned using wet/dry sandpaper. I found some 3M 600 grit. I soaked everything and "holy cow", was this stone off. It took a long while to get the #3000 flat, and the #8000 was not so bad. I again tried them on a flat glass, and both sides were flush as could be. I was a happy camper. So, I then beveled all the edges. Now it's very Pretty, and flat.
Quick fix for the manmade stone, but I feel the Welsh stones entourage to me will not be as easy to lap/flatten.
I'm thinking of possibly a Norton flattening stone. Comments?

 

Super simple. You should clean your hones every use. It is similar to lapping but is just a quick and simple cleaning, and it also helps to maintain the flatness of your hones. I used to think that my tape was plugging up my hone a lot too. So I switched to red or blue tape and they still turn black, not he color of the tape at all. So in my case it is definitely swarf that is turning them black. Also as your technique gets better you put far less pressure on the spine and all the energy is concentrated on the edge and tape wear because less of an issue. I am a big fan of the diamond plates. They last and last as long as you use them under water or with running water and periodically. The setup I think is the cats pajamas is an 8x3 diamond plate in a holder. It make them stick to the bottom of the kitchen sink well and with out wobbling. Going to meets will allow you to talk one on one with many people and compare notes and see other people setups

 

Honing is not inexpensive. From bevel to finish it will cost more than a new Ralph Aust from SRD. As a beginner your money is better spent on a good razor and strop. Several shops offer free honing with a new razor and one offers fre honing even if you didn't buy from them.
My suggestion is buy a new razor from a dealer that sells shave ready. If straight shaving is not for you, you'll get a fair amount reselling slightly used equipment. If you buy inexpensive equipment and don't like it you won't get nearly what you paid.

 

@ARGH, that's one way to do it, but I'm a little stubborn. Plus, I like to tinker with just about everything. But, I know my limits too. Straight razors are within my capabilities. Straights are just another aspect of this hobby. I enjoy reviving razors, from the dead. Be it double edged razors, single edge razors, or straights. There is something satisfying and cathartic about it. I don't get the same satisfaction in using brand new razors. Right now I'm taking baby steps, and concentrating on perfecting my honing skills. I will be working on some Japanese razors this weekend. Rust removal and cleaning. But new sure is pretty.

 

best option in my opinion is a diamond plate like DMT 325 or atoma 400.i have used a naniwa lapping stone but i think it looses cutting power way too fast.and it needs to be lapped after a while with a diamond plate or sand paper.so i recommend a diamond plate over a lapping stone all day.a good size is 20 x 7 cm.for a cheap solution you can use sand paper at 400 grit on a hard flat surface.

 

That's not really the inexpensive route to straights. I agree with honing and restoring razors but the invested dollars I have in stones is close to what I have in 40 razors of which 20 were new and not entry level.
Entry honing on a budget is a Norton 4/8 or similar and something to finish on but that on the cheap is still $100+

You can flatten stone in sand paper on flat glass or marble or a table saw. I did that to save the $50 for the DMT 325 I now use. The DMT is worth it if you do a lot of honing.

 

I'm not going for the least expensive way to get into straights, just a much less expensive route. This includes inexpensive stones, sandpaper, or whatever works well. I did the sandpaper thing last night, but I'm not sure that's what I want for large Welsh hones. I ordered a Norton Flattening stone.

 

Be careful with natural Hones on flattening stones and diamond plates. Natural stones can wear a DMT out. You can bring plates back with some abrasive cleaner and a nylon scrub brush.

 

if you bought the welsh hones from AJ on the bay they are lapped and ready to go.these stones are so hard they don`t need lapping for ages.when that day comes i would use sandpaper.i think your norton stone are ment for synthetic hones. lapped a llyn idwall not long ago on sandpaper. went pretty well.

 

I used wet/dry on a piece of stone to lap my Welsh stones. They didn't need it, and were lapped on both sides. I now use the same DMT 325 on my synthetics and natural stones. You will know in a hurry if the stone is too hard for it. Don't over think this. You need a couple of mostly flat rocks, and some time. I'm still figuring it out, but it is getting easier.

 

Ok, then I will use it for the synthetics. Problem solved. Thanks guys.

 

The Welsh Hones have matching slurry stones with them. That should do the job of cleaning them, shouldn't it?

 

Just rins them under running water.you don't need to clean them like synthetic stones.you don't get metal particels embeded in the surface.

 

Thanks for the advice. I will do that.

I set levels on two Japanese Silver Steel/Swedish Steel razors, on my No Name #3000/#8000 hone. I did it once without taping and once with taping. With the tape, it left a lot of black on the hone. Soap and a nylon brush didn't get it out. I guess I need to switch to 3M electric tape, and do a light sanding/lapping.
Of they are now scary sharp. I will post more in the Japanese razor thread later. Time for church.

 

I just received these stones, from Wales. Welsh Slate. 8K, 12K, 15K. Man can these put a nice edge on a razor. I also received a Kings 1K artificial stone, for bevel setting. I redid the bevil on this razor, a 弥一 YAICHI 東京 . I thought it was scary sharp, just doing everything on the 3000/8000, but it just didn't cut it.
These stones brought this Frameback to a very sharp finish. Sharper than I've been able to get before.
I went 1K 3K 8K 12K 15K.

 

Here is my complete stone setup. It seems to work very well, so far. I've honed Three Japanese razors with these, and It just gets better, each time.

Norton Lapping stone
Unknown #3000/#8000 stone
King #1000
Welsh 8 x 3 inch slate stones. 8K, 12K, 15K(roughly) along with matching slurry stones

 

Looks like are ready to do some honing. Looks like a great set up.