No matter how hard I try, I always get irritation on the third pass on the neck when I go against the grain. I use a Wilkinson Sword Classic, a 24mm knot Maggard synthetic shaving brush, a cream(Palmolive, D'amaris, Denim) and a D'amaris aftershave. Anyone else who has irritation after the ATG pass? Could use some advice.
Alex, My neck is notoriously sensitive. My BEST advice to you is forgo the ATG pass. It's not worth it.
If you can’t go against the grain, try almost against. For the sake of this discussion. Imagine your face as the compass points. And that the hairs grow from n to s. south is with the grain. East or west would be across the grain. North would be against. Instead of north, try cutting ne or nw, maybe even north by northeast or north by northwest. Mowing not dead against, but at an angle close to it? or just stick to two passes, or a third buffing pass across.
Is it possible you're going for that last tiny bit of cleanup on the third pass and so are unintentionally pressing too hard to get it?
Try ATG on the second pass. I'm not kidding. Also, what blades are you using? I've found that blade choice makes a big difference. I don't know your razor, unfortunately, but try a sharper blade and less pressure. Or a smoother blade if that fails. Many will disagree with me, but I had similar problems until I got the hardware and technique right. I think both are important.
My lower neck grows out almost parallel to the skin. Only an ATG pass gets the clean shave, but most safety razors can irritate if you are off on your game a little. I mostly just avoided ATG work and opted for comfort. Open edge tools was a good solution for me. I have a couple of the Focus Dynamic R48 1/2 DE Single Edge pivoting head razors. They work well for me too. Once you get the hang of blade loading and applying the right pressure it is smooth sailing. Not for everyone.
Several years ago I started going ATG all over, pretty much every shave, starting with the first pass low on the neck and working upward. Sounds nasty but it's not a problem if I shave every day or two and not let it get too long, otherwise it's asking for trouble. Anyway, that's how I usually get a quick BBS (or close enough to it) in 2 passes with little to no irritation. Sometimes in 1 pass, depending on the razor. And buffing is the key!
Go with an open comb. Irritation comes from either pushing down too hard, or going over the same spot too often. With the O.C., there is more blade exposure, so you don’t have to put pressure on the skin to get close, and since you get closer, you don’t have to go over the same spot as much.
Today I made only 2 passes: One WTG except the neck(where I have irritation) where I went XTG and the second pass ATG everywhere. Better results with no irritation.
