JUNE 2015 30 Day Rule/Focus Pic & Discussion Thread

Careful now..it is a veritable minefield….
I used to tell Bruce (@Stroker ) that all HIS daily photos of his fine collection of straight razors lured me onto the SR path….
Once in, there was no turning back.
The evident simplicity of a single blade for shaving is mitigated by the difficultly in learning to use one properly and to properly maintain it.
With DE razors, you merely switch out to a new desired blade of choice when shaving gets uncomfortable.
SRs require a commitment to daily maintenance and care of the instrument.
But there is NOTHING in wet-shaving—at least that I've discovered— that matches both pleasure and self-satisfaction of a good SR shave.

 

World Tournament of Blades - Russia vs. the World!!
June 12, 2015
Prep - Hot shower and towel
Brush - Vie Long 12705
Soap - Tabac
Razor - '59 Gillette Superspeed
Van Der Hagen, which is of course the Weishi 9306
Blade - (1)
Post - Alum, Nivea Balm

The tournament continues with the World contenders. Today, the Bic Chrome Platinum from Greece which actually features polymeric, chrome platinum and Teflon coatings. It's a blade recommended to me by @Jasman and the times I've used it I was impressed. So, let's put it through the paces.

The razor of choice today was the '59 Gillette Superspeed. I didn't load it ahead of time and grabbed the razor of my desk where I've been cleaning them to take along for the shave. Loaded the Bic and looked at the razor as something didn't seem quite right.....oh......DUH.....I picked up the Weishi instead of the SS that was right beside it. Too much trouble to go back and change so what the heck. They shave similarly and the Weishi is milder. The soap/brush combo today is Tabac with the horse. Great lather and have I mentioned I love the feel of the Vie Long? Yeah, I know, you know I have.

First pass was very very very smooth and the blade really did a great job. The Bic is a sharp blade, no doubt about it but not over the top sharp like a Feather. Lathered up again (love the Tabac scent) and went XTG. Very nice result on the face and surprisingly good on my neck. Did a neck lather and pass on neck only doing my usual Gillette Slide and a bit of buffing and finished with a very nice DFS. Very enjoyable. So, here is the scoring. Sharpness....the Bic is sharp. Gotta give it a 1 because of how well it performed especially in a mild razor. It wasn't shy about cutting the beard. Smoothness....very comfortable, no drag, no pulling and it just felt great. Gotta give it a 1. Irritation...thought this might be a problem since I did do extra on the neck. Hit it with alum and........quiet, oh so quiet. Give it a 1. Finally the result....DFS for the 2. Total is a 5!

Really a great shave and the Bic has a definite shot at the title with a score like that. Now, the next time it's in play will likely be a different razor but I'm impressed and fairly confident it can give the rest of the competition a run for its money! And its first competitor tomorrow for the right to advance to the Elite Eight? The Super-Max Super Platinum. Can't wait.

 

Saturday and I have time to for it so..... I wanted to see how good I could get with 3 passes versus yesterday's 2 pass then finish with a Lather Catcher. I decided to go with my top (favourite) accoutrements.

Proraso pre-post for the prep
QCS Ice Key Lime cream
Thater 2 band
Dovo Bismarck #2 6/8 carbon blade with ebony wood scales.
Drygulch classic american bridle strop with linen.
Alum block to keep my fingers dry
Home made vodka AS with alllllooooot of menthol.
Speick ASB
SMN Acqua di Cuba but after the freezing QCS and given it's a hot muggy day I decided to go with Creed Himalaya. (changed my mind right after the shave and I am too lazy to take a new picture)

The first two passes were smooth and free of irritation, I am getting pretty consistent up to this point and then magic the 3rd pass went smoothly too! No irritation and not even one tiny weeper. I was feeling cock so did a clean up and still no blood! Checked with the alum and just a tiny bit of sting. Definitely the least irritation ever for 3 passes with a straight. This was also the closest shave with a straight, I finally achieved a DFS. I am still not to BBS yet but I am encouraged.

The 30 day focus thread is a huge help to me, thank you to all my supportive shave brothers.

 

You are most correct in your description. You would be riding the cap now!

Here's my thinking. Per earlier posts, you are now taking advantage of a couple of things. As you raise the handle (ride the cap), more of the mass of the razor handle rests on your skin. The razor cap presents a larger area to support the increased pessure on the skin. These two things work together and actually deform the skin to a more "flattened" profile, all the while directing the forces onto the curved cap surface and away from the lead edge of the blade. The blade is traveling on a more shallow path than the cap (and also leading the cap) slicing the hairs as the skin goes taut from the increased mass, putting everything in line for a clean slice. "Riding the safety bar" puts the blade behind the point of most contact, dragging it over the skin, leading to issues.

Next cap riding tip: Holding a razor at the end of the handle increases pressure against the skin by increasing the amount of the razor's mass resting on your skin. Holding near the head of the razor reduces the effective pressure of a razor on the skin. However, it should be noted that holding near the cap can yield greater control, but the razor will be less forgiving if you try to take long strokes.

 

Wow this is huge for me now @Bama Samurai !

I'm an engineer, but a plodder. I can eventually get the technical aspect of process, but it takes a bit of trial and error before the light bulb turns on.

My take-away is to continue to explore "riding the cap" to find the optimal blade angle. As much as possible, this will be accompanied by gradually adjusting my grip closer to the razor head to attempt better control while continuing my regimen of short strokes.

Thanks much. The affirmation and guidance of my newbie reasoning is much appreciated. This continues to pave the way forward for me.

Cheers!
RT

 

Truth! Me too.

You are most welcome. I've used a Tech quite a bit, though I didn't learn DE on it. It's been cool to see you learn it as a first DE, it's very different than the Utopia I learned on. I am focusing on this exact same stuff in my daily shave. The reason I am doing the Cadet OC is because it was the first razor that really exposed my poor technique. It was SOTD on 31 October, 2014. I went from the mild easy Utopia (EJ89/R89 head type), straight to this Cadet. I had no idea how to manage the greater blade gap of the more aggressive Cadet. @maltedmilk has written about his experience with the Fattip Piccolo, a really aggressive OC. His threads on that kinda stuff allowed me to figure out I needed to be riding the cap. It's a technique that maximizes smoothness in mild razors like a Tech, making them glide and cut with ease, almost as if they just cut on their own. It will also test your lather! Welcome to the more fun parts of the learning. The days of bloody and irritating DE shaves are probably over!

 

6/13/15 - A Month of Proraso!!!

Proraso Red Sandalwood
WSP Monarch Silvertip
1921 Gillette Single-Ring
Pol-Silver Blade (6)
Clubman Pinaud

Probably going to change blades for tomorrow's shave. Which means a different razor. I got a BBS with today's setup, but just a little bit scratchy. I can pull off a 7 day with a Pol, but it's best if I change after 5.

 

I'm part of the way through my blade focus. So far this month, every shave has been with a Big Ben Super Stainless blade. Each blade has provided about 4 shaves - head and face - and the blade was fine in my Weber, Gillette New SC and LC. I have a 2nd LC that doesn't have the "Patent" information on it and that razor has never really worked well for me - just a bit more aggressive and it always gives me at least 1 nick and several weepers, so I am going to retire it and just use the others. I have 1 more Big Ben blade to use and it will be traveling with me to Nebraska this weekend. Next up will be the Gillette Nacet while I am in the Cornhusker State. I am only packing my New SC so the Nacet will get a fair bit of use.

 

06/13/2015
Razor – Gillette Red & Black New Deluxe
Blade – Feather (3)
Brush – Rubberset 400 unmarked with Omega Boar
Lather – Mystic Water Lime
Post - Witch Hazel & Myrsol Limon Sample



Another great shave with the New Deluxe. I find it very similar to the New LC. Perhaps it is a touch more aggressive and for me certainly a little more efficient. Up next will be the ATT M2 on loan from my best friend. It will be interesting to compare vintage OC with a modern OC. Whipped a pretty decent lather of Mystic Water Lime using my 400 omega boar. I don't use a boar brush very often so it always takes me a few minutes to figure it out. Finished up with a Myrsol Limon from my sample pack. Overall a great way to start a Saturday.

 

June 13

MdC facial soap
Muhle R41 (2013)
Feather blade (day 3)
Omega Pro 98 boar brush
D.R. Harris Almond shave cream
Two passes
Alum, Thayer's Lavender witch hazel, unrefined shea butter, and Pinaud Clubman

This has been my set up all week, and the shaves have been fantastic. The R41 loaded with a Feather blade has given me some of my best DE shaves ever - near BBS with no irritation in two passes. I usually finish with Nivea Sensitive post shave balm, but I used the Clubman today. It was a nice way to end a great shave and start a beautiful Saturday.

Enjoy your weekend!

 

Day #2 of 5; 30-Days of June
The second day using one of my favorite razors, this time in conjunction with the usually temperamental puck of Mitchell's Wool Fat. The Fat (or MWF) has garnered a reputation among many wet-shavers as a difficult to lather soap. This has been the case with a number of TSD shavers here as well whom choose to use the plentiful alternatives on the market—other quality soaps that yield good lather without the hassle and fuss MWF can present. Conversely, there are many users who find the quality, scent and efficacy of the MWF lather worth the effort. I find myself in that latter group.

The 'secret' for me to getting this tallow-based soap to yield good, slick, paint-the-face-thickly lather is use a minimum of water.
With the Mitchells, too much water will quickly lead to bubbly foam with no enduring slickness. I have also discovered the synthetic brushes seem a better match for this less-water-is-more soap.
My typical approach in using this soap: Just prior to making lather, a quick splash of water over the dry puck (no presoaking or saturating with water the puck beforehand). With a dry (synthetic) brush, begin swirling on the puck, rather aggressively. Initially, the airy foaminess is present, but after 20-30 seconds of vigorous brush swirling, the lather begin to thicken and the foaming dissipates into the desired consistency. The brush should be adequately loaded at tis point for one or two passes. Apply to a wet face. The lather should paint on rather thickly (think white enamel), a dip of the brush end in water and continue with brush on there face until satisfied with the result.

The SHAVE: With a good slick base of MWF lather applied, the big Wosty blade simply glides over the surface with ease. The larger, slightly angled toe of the blade I find very useful in getting those tight spaces when 'manicuring' around my mustache and lower lip. This can be especially tricky with some razors in the tight, narrow space between the nostrils and columella, and top of a large mustache. Three full passes, plus a little touch-up under the jawline and throat (typical) left me in near-BBS territory. I do enjoy the clean, light scent of the MWF lather. I ended the shave with the bracing CHILL and BITE of the Fine Snake Bite.

Tomorrow's shave will be on the road as I'm heading out of town to Monterey for my nephew's wedding tonight.

 

I will be scarce this weekend. Hope everybody has a great weekend!

 

June 13th, SOTD (Shave 8 of this focus)
Two days’ growth
Prep: Hot Shower
Razor: Gillette New Short Comb
Blade: Rapira Platinum Lux
Soap: Homestead Ranch Goat Butter Soap (mixed scents)
Brush: Eveready 100T re-knotted with 22mm TGN Synthetic
Post Shave: Cold Water Rinse, Alum Block, Thayer’s Witch Hazel
Aftershave: Aubrey Men’s Stock North Woods

Didn’t manage to get my last shave posted. It was a pretty good one with the Craftsman straight razor. For today’s shave, I wanted to use a DE I had just traded for. I traded a GEM SE for this one, because I have always wanted to try and OC. Effortless two pass shave that was almost BBS. Decided to chase the baby, and realized this is a mildly aggressive razor. Face and neck are BBS, but got some irritation and a few weepers on the neck. Very easy shave compared to straights, but not quite as satisfying as a straight razor shave.

 

Luckily my SR white whale has yet to appear as a genuine BLB restoration.

 

Cold water shave focus day 13:

Homemade PS Oil
WD High Mountain Badger 30 mm
Musco Real Classic SC
Ralf Aust 5/8 straight
Gillette Ball End Tech
Stirling Unscented PSB
Musco Real Classic AS

My first day off in a while, so I took the time to get a straight shave in. Managed a decent 3 pass shave, but still needed some clean up after using the DE. All in all a good shave. Love the Musco Real. The cold water shave just made everything better. I am really liking the way the razor gets cold in the water. I think I will go with some menthol tomorrow for an even frostier experience.

 

Safe travels and best wishes to the wedding party! I love being on the wharf in Monterey when the Army plays taps at the Presidio, the walruses sing along.

 

June Open Comb Focus
Day 10

Prep: Hot shower
Razor: Gillette New SC
Blade: Voskhod
Brush: Omega 10083 Boar Brush
Lather: Kiss My Face Lavender Shea Shave Cream
Post: Cold rinse, Alum, Witch hazel, TBS Maca Root ASB

KMF shave cream always surprises me for its post shave moisturizing effect.

I also found out that I get a more comfortable shave on the moustache area when going ATG by shaving SE to NW and SW to NE, then relather and shave S to N.

I hope that made sense or else I'm just confusing myself.

 

Day 11 - 12 May 2015

30 Day Rule with a Cadet OC!


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Day 2, I believe, on this blade. A really easy and smooth shave today. It seems like after eleven days, things are finally falling into place. The key to this razor is maintaining a consistent low angle to mitigate the aggressive geometry. This is a cap riding razor for sure. Throw in a little SR style stretching and 2 passes will get it done. I wasn't gonna shave today, but decided to anyway and was rewarded. Kept this real simple on the finish, just some alum and a little of the TSD ISZ AS Splash that everybody just ordered. Right?!? Other than that, still raining in Colorado...

Have a beautiful Sunday!

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Thanks for joining in on the fun!

 

World Tournament of Blades - Russia vs. the World!!
June 13, 2015
Prep - Hot shower and towel
Brush - Vie Long 12705
Soap - Tabac
Razor - Van Der Hagen (Weishi 9306)

Blade - (1)
Post - Alum, Nivea Balm

Back to India in the World division today. It's the Super-Max Super Platinum and was the first Vidyut blade I ever tried. And, I found it to be a really good blade. One of the platinums that don't drive me to drink. Loaded up the Weishi again, grabbed the horse and galloped into a great lather. Tabac is another new addition to my den that will be permanent. I've definitely added to my soaps with it and MWF.

Hit the first pass early this morning....man I hate these monthly spiff meetings. Felt great, did a good job on the first pass and onward we go. Lathered up again enjoying the scent and did XTG. Finished with a quick touch up on the neck and had to call it good due to time. However, I probably wouldn't have done any more anyway to avoid irritation. Finished with a DFS and looked great for the busiest day of the week.

Sharpness....this blade is as sharp as the Voskhod and several others so it's a 1. Smoothness also a 1. Felt like no blade was even in the razor, though the mildness of the Weishi no doubt helped. Irritation was also not bad at all. Just a slight all over sting to the alum that didn't last long. It's a 1. Result? DFS so a 2. Total? 5.

We have a TIE!! The Bic also scored 5. And, there is no overtime in this tourney. So how to break the tie? Well, as subjective as it is I have chosen to compare each section of both blades' scoring and add my opinion based on the results. I think both blades are equally sharp. Great on that point. Smoothness? Really couldn't tell the difference. Obviously they both got to DFS and neither produced any blood so we'll call that even. Irritation is left. The Bic was quiet. Not really a sting at all. The Super-Max did produce a mild sting. Compared to some others it was nothing, but compared to the Bic is is slightly, and I mean slightly worse. So.......change Irritation on this blade to 1.5 and final score is.......

Bic - 5
SMSP - 5.5

Winner by the slightest of margins is the BIC!!!

A confession - When I set up the brackets I fully expected Kai to beat the Super-Max Platinum and the Super Platinum to beat the Bic. I ended with the exact opposite results! It's surprises like that that make doing things like this so fun. And, it's why I refuse to pick a winner of the whole thing! Hope you all had a great Saturday! Tomorrow we move to the Treet Platinum as we travel to Pakistan for the next round!