When I got my first straight I had always intended to at least try honing myself, and I'm starting to get feel like I might be ready to get my feet wet. From what I've seen and read I should be able to get away with a Norton 4k/8k which is fine, but right now I'm more intrested in refresshing my straight when the stropping is no longer enough. I know I could go with a pasted strop but I'd rather use a stone. So barbers hone, Chinese 12K, Coticule or something else? Also a quick question on bevel setting. How long should a well maintained straight before it need the bevel set?
I've seen folks post they go years between honings when they are consistent about maintenance of their razors. Other opt to have it done bi-annually. How one cares and maintains the razor probably dictates the length between honings. I suppose one aspect of which direction to take with refreshing stones depends upon how much you wish to invest. Barber Hones can be had for $25-35; providing you find one of a higher grit;…Large C12k about $40; providing you find one of a higher grit; Coticule = $$$; providing you find one of a higher grit. I find a bench strop pasted with CrOx does a nice job as well. All can do the job of refreshing. I look forward to reading what others more experienced than I have to say…
Any of the above... Myself I tend to recommend the Naniwa SS 12k as a first "Refresher" as you can easily add the Naniwa SS 3/8 (or the Norton 4/8) to compliment it later, and the Naniwa SS 1 k if you want to get crazy If you do the maintenance, timely and CORRECTLY you can go decades without needing a bevel set, assuming no damage occurs
I'm a fan of 12-13k synthetic hones. No history like barber hones or naturals however they're very consistent. Pretty inexpensive too. Edit - If you don't want to order online, since you're in Winnipeg; Lee Valley Tools carries hones as well, I have a 13k from them that works very well: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67089&cat=1,43072,67175
Thanks for the replies, I have started the slow hunt for a Naniwa SS 12K. As Glen pointed out, this opens up the door to the relatively inexpensive Naniwa SS system (1, 3/5, 8K) later. As much as I'd like to go with natural stones, I think the inconsistency of their grit would be too much of a learning curve for now... this did catch my eye however Welsh Slate stone set. No problems ordering online, but it still might be worth seeing some stones in person.
I have the Sigma 13K from Lee Valley as well as the Welsh Stones...both are very good options and perform very well. The problem with naturals as you probably already know is that they're not always consistent in the grit rating. So the welsh hones you may get may not be the same as mine..but a synthetic will be consistent across the board.
As tempting as natural stones are, I think the consistency of synthetic is the way to go for now. If I decide to go that far down the rabbit hole, I'll have to take another look at the natural stone. I imagine there could be a lot of trial and error.
I have heard mention of the Zulu Grey before. For some reason I would have expected a bigger price tag. I'm not suggesting it is a cheap stone or necessarily in my price range.
The ZG isn't in the price realm of some of the other natural finishers…yet. But I expect as demand continues for them, there will be pressure to drive pricing upwards. At $185 for the biggest (3x8), 'it ain't chump change'—but I would consider the ZG a deal if it performs as well as others claim. I have one on my Wish List….
My wish lists seem to find there way into my shopping cart to easily, I have to be very careful with what I add...
I think one could make several different choices for a finisher/refresher and with a bit of practice, be happy. I agree most strongly with Glen however, mainly because of the good reputation of the Naniwa SS and the economy. You can buy 10K or 12K now, and then add the coarser grits later as you see fit. I've got 1K, 3K, 5K, and 10K Super Stones and they work very well for me. I think you will like them also. I don't know where you are located, but I got my stones here: http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/ and I found the pricing very good, and the service was excellent.
I agree the naniwa 12k is what I use and is a solid performer. That being said, if you decide to get more into honing later on, find a 1k bevel setter you like, add your bridge stones 3,4,5,6,8,10 the list is vast. I tend not to go over double the previous say 3-6, 4-8; just my quirk. Stick with those stones til you can work them well, and experiment with your finishers. I have used the same progression for two years, and only intend to try other finishers b/c my bevel and bridge stones work well and I am comfortable with them so I have no need to have four or five 4k or 8k lying around.
I hone over 300 different razors a year. All of the stones/hones spoken of here are excellent stones. If you only intend to maintain your own, barring chipped blades, etc. a Dragons Tongue, Welsh Slate stone, is hard to beat in price, consistency, and range of usefulness. 8-9K. Make sure it is DT that has been lapped on one face. Available on the bay in the $30-35 range. Green box, 8x2x1/2, and there is a guy in UK has them 3x9 for a few $ more. If you have regrets, I will buy it from you at that price. They have been cutting these a long time and they are very consistent. How will you test? I highly recommend cutting paper. One type of test from beginning to end. Don't have to learn 3 or 4 strange, different tests. Test cut anytime, not just when certain plateaus have been reached. Buy a 10 pk of 5x8 note pads and you will have over a years worth of identical test material. No, I never heard that dulls the blade. So what do dirty arm hairs do? Either way, the hone is still sitting on the bench in front of you. Anyway, once you have learned to cut paper, and then learned how to read the noise level, roughness or smoothness of the razor passing through it, and slickness of the cut, the slight tick a microscopic chip makes while passing over the paper. Then you will be ready to start. When honing a previously shaving razor, I make a couple of cuts for reference. Honing on a DT with a slurry somewhere between milk and mud, within 20-30 passes you should be able to tell a deterioration of the edge. Once the entire edge sounds and feels the same, telling you that the stone is actually hitting the edge for the full length, you are ready to start watering down the slurry, a little at a time. Continuing to test periodically, and gradually getting lighter handed with the honing, you can eventually get as fine as a 12K synthetic will do. When you think you have gotten as good as that stone will get you, you should be ready for the strop. A ready edge will float through the paper as under its own weight, and barely make a sound. Like the shaving itself, you gradually learn more and get more use from you stones, and your testing. When I think I am near the end of how well a stone will get a particular edge, I test every 10-15 laps. When I am sure there is no improvement, I am there. But, these are very fine stones, a lighter hand may get you a better edge. Hope you or another can get something from this, even if just some playing. Like shaving with a straight when you started, honing does take convenient place to work, good light, I like flip up magnifying goggles, quiet, and concentration. Turn the TV and music off. They are occupying part of your brain that could be helping you. Have a great evening gents,
