March 2017 30 Day Rule/Focus Pix & Discussion

This is one of my favorite posts ever.

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I totally agree with this. That is kind of why my categories are broken down the way they are. To me good backbone is achieved more by density than just sinking the knot deeper. Just sinking a knot deeper to get a shorter loft might stiffen it up, but it also has a big effect on the splay, (tightens it) and how that know feels on the face. Density has a huge effect on flowthrough, but if a knot is built for a short loft, lather will flow better than simply shoving a knot down an extra 10mm.

This is the biggest advantage (IMO) to buying some of the bigger brand brushes. It isn't that the tips on a Thater silvertip are really that much softer than a Whipped Dog, it is that the knot in the Thater was built for the application you are buying it in. A big part of the extra cost is the work that goes into making these knots unique to their setting. It is also why you are seeing more and more Shavemac knots going into the upper end customs. Shavemac lets you configure your knot exactly the way you want it, so your loft is actual, not created by the set in the handle.

A guy has to be a brush nerd to care maybe, but it really does make a difference in how these brushes can all feel so different. I find this difference way more noticeable in badgers, which is maybe why I like collecting them so much.

 

Well, you know ....

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Guilty as charged

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Happy birthday Adam!

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Mar 4, 2017

Gillette SA w Voskhod (2)
First Canadian Maximo Gomez Cuba
TGN Finest Fan/ Maple Handle
Thayers Unscented
Stirling Gentleman Balm



Day 2 of the SA focus, 2nd day with the Voskhod. I put the setting at 5 for the 1st pass, 3 for each of the next two. I noticed a slight difference between the first pass yesterday at 3 and today at 5. Same results after 3 passes. Was not close enough, IMO, after 2 passes to forgo a 3rd. I don't work today, but still like to feel a nice, close shave.

My focus is on the razor, but I did want to talk about the soap a bit. I ordered a few new soaps last week from artisans I haven't used. This was my first day with any First Canadian soap. It is labelled as a 'new formulation', but since I never used the old formulation, I'm not sure what they changed. This is an excellent soap. 20 second load had the room smelling of a wonderful tobacco-based scent. I face lather with this Fan, and I easily had enough soap after that load for all my passes, and squeezed out enough afterwards for 2 more. In the hand it doesn't feel as slick as say Stirling, but it is very slick on the razor if that makes any sense. Great smell and feel post shave. After one day, my initial opinion is that this is a first-rate product. For those who it matters to, it is a Tallow and Lanolin soap.
Have a great weekend all!

 

All great points but there is one more point that you briefly touched on earlier this month. That is the presence and size of the glue bump. Unless the hairs or fibers are glued directly into the handle, glue is used to make the plug on the knot. The glue used to make the knot above the handle is the glue bump. The presence of a glue bump does not mean the knot is inferior but it does change the characteristics of the brush. For example if a brush has a loft (distance from the top of the handle to the tips of the knot) of 52mm but has a 10mm glue bump the knot has an effective loft (also called free loft) of 42mm. The brush maker can use the glue bump to improve backbone without making the brush to dense etc. For example, my Zenith Boar uses very fine boar hairs but has a pretty significant glue bump. This allowed the maker to have a brush with good backbone with zero break in time.

You indicated that part of the cost difference in a Thater or Shavemac is making the brush unique to the setting. I agree but also add that you are paying for the maker's experience in constructing knots that are consistent in the characteristics. When dealing with natural fibers each pelt is different. Master knot makers are blending the fibers and constructing the knots so that the maintain the characteristics from batch to batch, year to year, as much as possible. Much like a blended whiskey maker tries to maintain the same brand taste profile over time.

 

Awesome points. And a very good add. I would for the sake of the discussion, consider glue bump an aspect of the construction of the knot. I don't think a glue bump really affects the actual feel of the brush at all in use, (some people would argue that strongly) because it isn't constricting the hair at all, or as you pointed out making it more dense than was built to be. To me, your point really helps illustrate that effective loft (above the plane of the handle top, I think) is really the only number that matters.

 

March 4

G3 Gillette Fat Boy
Feather (2)
Semogue Owners Club Two-band Finest
Jabonman Eufros Oriental Breeze
Alum, Thayer's Lavender witch hazel, unrefined shea butter, and Alt-Innsbruck

I enjoyed two passes for a near-BBS, mid-day shave with my favorite soap and aftershave. After using a few different DE blades, I now agree that the Feather is smoother on the second day. The Chubby 2 has been freshened up, and it goes into service tomorrow morning. I'll try my first Voskhod blade in the FB next week. I have a bunch. If you'd like to try them, PM me.

I practiced my eighth notes (the pick now moves UP and DOWN ), and I also practiced playing the chords to "Under The Boardwalk" on my acoustic guitar this morning. My guitar doesn't have a whammy bar like @Bama Samurai's, but I wouldn't know how to use it anyway. It's an afternoon filled with college basketball, and my Bride and I have tickets to the local dinner theater this evening.

Enjoy your Saturday!

 

I was hoping we would see the new brush today. It is quite plump and healthy looking. Had a shave with it yet?

 

Thanks Jared. Plump and healthy looking...we're talkin' about the brush, right? My first shave with it will be tomorrow, but the first impressions are good. I've made a few hand lathers with it, and it has really soft tips and a ton of backbone. I also like the shape and the solid feel of the handle. I'll have an update for you tomorrow.

 

That is an awesome brush. Their 3 band super is some incredibly soft hair, and that brush has a ton of it. I really am a sucker for Simpsons in Ivory. They are just so classic looking. I'm excited, and it isn't even my brush. Have a unicorn, on me.

 

Thanks Jared. I've looked at Simpson brushes for last the couple of years, and always hesitated because of the price. This is my first one, and I'm excited.

 

Honestly? Maybe they are a bit over priced, and I think you are paying some premium for that little Made in Great Britain sticker, but nothing else looks quite like one when it sits on the shelf. It's just my opinion I guess, but I really like them.

 

I found the best prices here by far: http://www.shaving.ie/simpson/ Super duper vendor.

 

I know the final cost is a function of the Simpson name plus the overall higher cost of everything in GB. For about the same dollar, I can get a world-class diver's watch. I dig sport watches much like you dig brushes. It's an apples and oranges comparison, but it amazes me that an animal hair brush that gets used 15 minutes a day would cost as much as a precision diving instrument that you can wear all day long. I'm weird. That's just how I think.

 

March 4 - Fatboy gets a new Voskhod

Gillette Fatboy G3 on #6
Voskhod Day 1
23mm AOS pure badger brush
Homemade PSO
Stirling Sandalwood
Alum/ Thayer's WH
Nivea SPSB​

With a new Voskhod in the Fatboy, I again took on the challenge of a BBS from this razor. I turned it up to 6 this time. The blade was easy and obviously exposed. It was no problem riding the cap with the blade so easy to find.

Stirling did not disappoint. The first of 3 passes was a bit dry. Passes 2 and 3 needed more water but all were protective and slick. Again, Stirling Sandalwood is an awesome scent. It is warmer in tone than TOBS and wonderful. I like this one just as much as TOBS or AOS.

As cheap as this brush is I do prefer this handle to the 23mm AOS Pure Badger. My fingers sit in the lower valley and I get nice control. The larger brush lacks a pronounced valley and i find this less comfortable. With a little pressure, this inexpensive brush goes from exfoliating to soft. It isn't nearly as comfortable as the Phoenix but it gets the job done. Unfortunately, it seems to be losing hair. The first one I had of this brush had a crack in it and AOS was nice to replace it free. Hopefully it will stop shedding .

I was feather soft with the touch of the blade. As soft as I was, I still had lots of audible Velcro as the blade did its job. It took 3 passes with lots of cleanup to achieve a BBS shave. I did have 2 weepers but it was worth it sacrificing a little blood for the cause. Alum was biting and after a little while needed a rinsing. WH and Nivea sealed the deal. Face did feel warm for some time after but calmed nicely. All in all, a perfect shave. Voskhod still did not feel as sharp as I have experienced before. For me in the Fatboy, I might need a sharper blade or something smoother. Time will tell.

Still no sign of the Fendrihan... I think the mailman is shaving with it

 

Nice photo. Enjoy the night out. Out of curiosity, what was your Fatboy set on? From the photo, is that 1?

 

That makes me weird too