My Straight Shave Saga (continues...)

comfortably

this is good advice

 

As someone interested in embarking on my own straight-razor shaving journey, this thread has been really really informative for me. I am glad you are secure enough to divulge your mistakes and ask for guidance. Reading it has helped give me a bit more of an idea what to expect when I go for my first shaves.

 

Thanks, Mr. Bo! I'm glad SOMEONE's getting something out of this.

Shave #29:

Irisch Moos shave soap
Vulfix 2233 (I keep writing the brush name because I'm anxiously awaiting news on my/my son's new Semogues!)
Wapi (just got Wapis #3 and #4 in the mail today!)
WTG/XTG/ATG (briefly)
Mama Bear's alum block
NO STYPTIC (always a good thing!)
Generic store-brand Witch Hazel
...followed soon after by Thayer's Unscented Alcohol-Free witch hazel.

Short strokes are the key, fellas. Ignore those YouTube videos where some kamikaze dude slices off all his facial hear in one stroke. IMHO, short quick repeated feathery-light strokes are the way to remove the most hair and the least skin in the shortest amount of time. That way you can keep your wrist at the same angle, since you're only moving the blade an inch per stroke.

Trying to follow the contours of your entire face in one stroke? Foolhardy.

Today's shave would have been darn near perfect, except that I can't seem to find a post-shave regimen that moisturizes worth a damn.

I thought I'd give good ol' Witch Hazel a chance, and that wasn't a bad decision, exactly, except that witch hazel by itself isn't moisturizing. Apparently. So I learned. My poor skin was VERY dry and tight after. Thayer's helped some, but something in it (I think it's the aloe) leaves me sticky. So I'm darned if I don't and darned if I do. What's the point of witch hazel if it leaves my skin tight and dry? I can do that with alcohol...

MUST find the good generic after-shave moisturizer. I refuse to buy anything from Nivea, Neutrogena, etc, on the off chance they discontinue it within the next 40 years. I'm determined to find a shave regimen that's "discontinued"-proof.

The never-ending alum deodorant, I like. The blade I never have to replace parts of, I like. The shave brush I should be able to pass on to my kid, I like.

Shave soap/cream that gets used up and old and might not be made any more this time next year... not so much.

Aftershave that I have to order from across the globe, not so much.

Perhaps I'll try to locate some glycerin at the drug store again? I tried glycerin by itself a couple of years ago, and don't remember why I ended up not liking it, but I'm going to try again.

I don't really want to have to make my own aftershave, either, but we'll see.

Aqua Velva, at least, has some glycerin in it. I also refuse to use an aftershave that relies on propylene glycol to do its moisturizing job (Old Spice, Brut). There's just something weird and wrong with that.

All in all, one of my best shaves ever. Hooray! MUST NOT SHAVE TOMORROW.

 

If I may ask, what's your face cleansing routine? It could be that which is contributing to your excessive dryness after a shave. Just a thought...

 

Oh, of course you're right - my "routine" is basically scrubbing my face with generic gym from-the-dispenser-in-the-shower soap, and the gym-provided face cloth.

Again, I don't want to drag around something that I don't have to, especially a liquid something.

Is there such thing as a manly American bar soap that doesn't dry out the skin? (none that I've ever found...)

Thank you, truckman. Your advice is invaluable.

 

Greg,
the stuff provided by the gyms are very drying(in my experience)
as far as non drying soaps, give yardleys a try. I was surprised to find this worked very well and didn't make my skin tight and itchy like most other soaps and shower gels. You might also try the everyman Jack soap(only sold at target), I have only tried the shower gel but found that works much better than any other shower gel I have ever used. These are as manly as they get, they look like blocks of wood.

 

Shave #30:

Washed face with Yardley Oatmeal & Almond soap
then used Yardley Oatmeal & Almond soap as shaving soap (rubbed soap bar on face, then face lathered)
Vulfix
Wapi
alum block
Aqua Velva
Geo. F. Trumper's Curzon cologne

It occurred to me late last night... if this particular Yardley's soap, which is based on tallow, glycerin and oat flour, is the good face soap, why not try it as a shaving soap as well? Is there really that much difference between bar soap and shaving soap?

So I gave it a shot.

They must put foam stabilizers in shave soap or something, because this stuff lathered really well, but all the lather went away very quickly. Great scent!

Now, the lack of lather wasn't entirely bad. I still had some pretty good lubrication left over after all the bubbles popped, even without any visible lather on my face, and still did a mighty fine job shaving (if I do say so myself). In fact, not ONE SINGLE DROP OF BLOOD WAS SPILLED. Amazing! I even felt the blade catch once, but by some miracle, it didn't cut me. I totally give at least some of the credit to the soap. How did it protect me? I have no idea. It was actually nice to be able to see my skin a little bit as I was shaving.

I still prefer my favorite Irisch Moos, I think. I got a superior shave with the IM, the thicker, more lubricating lather lasted longer, and it comes in better packaging, but considering the Yardley's is a tenth the price, and it's available at the local drug store, I might seriously consider trying this again. I took a quick look at the other Walgreens bar soap offerings while I was there, and didn't find anything else comparable to the Yardley's.

I briefly considered buying a plastic soap box for travel, as well, but in the end decided to just carry it in the original paperboard box. That way, when the box gets all gross by the end of the bar, I can just throw it away.

(I hate old-soap-residue-covered plastic travel soap boxes)

I had some major issues getting the Yardley's bar from the shower to the sink at the gym, got soap all over my hands and the towel I tried drying it off with, and ended up using the hand dryer to dry it off some, then had to wash my hands again. Too many steps involved - must think of a better way...

Naturally, the Yardley's washed off of my brush beautifully without any residue, and left my face... not too bad. I'd love to say this soap was the most moisturizing thing ever, but it was just OK. Probably better than any other bar soap, mind you...

The Aqua Velva felt great! Lots of menthol, OK moisturizing. Good stuff!!! Probably the best drugstore offering out there. (sorry, Pinaud fans - add some menthol and glycerin, and I'd be all over that)

And I can actually touch my face an hour later without it still feeling sensitive (this is a first, with straight shaving!). Must be the soap.

All in all... a fine shave. Thank you for inadvertently giving me this idea, Bong!

ps: Curzon is the best s&%t ever. Delicious! Now I feel like a man, AND smell like one.

 

Shave #31:

Yardley's Oatmeal & Almond soap as shaving soap
Vulfix 2233
Wapi WTG/XTG/tiny bit ATG
alum block
ONE drop of baby oil
Pinaud Clubman aftershave

What a wonderful, wonderful shave! It's been five days since I shaved last, and my beard was getting itchy. I thought for sure today's shave would be extra-difficult because of the extra beard. But my dear, dear Wapi cut through all that like butter! She had no trouble at all.

Not a nick, not a spot of irritation, nothing but good news. Bong's idea re: the Yardley soap has worked out excellently! Still a little annoyed by the rapidly disappearing bubbles/lather, but I *swear* this soap protects my skin from damage somehow. I wonder if I can add anything to the brush to keep the lather going?

The alum block was especially kind as well, I suppose meaning I didn't chew up my face too badly. Talk about instant feedback! Every shaver needs one of these things.

And yes, gentlemen, I gave baby oil another chance. To be perfectly honest, I believe this is the best my face skin has ever felt. Ever. Pinauds + baby oil = bliss! It was the quantity that I messed up the first time. Literally one drop was enough to turn drying-Pinaud's into moisturizing-Pinaud's.

Soft, smooth, well hydrated yet not shiny... perfect.

Took a little Krew Comb afterwards to style my hair, and rubbed the leftovers into my hands... smells great, and surprisingly functional as hand cream!

This morning regimen is really starting to shape up. Thanks, TSD! Thanks, Wapi!

 

Shave #32:

Castle Forbes Lime shaving cream
VDH Premium badger hair brush
STAMPED Wapi WTG/XTG ONLY
Castle Forbes aftershave balm

superbleu was kind enough to send me a GIANT pile of wonderful samples, and I chose the Castle Forbes line this morning. What an unusual combination of products this Castle Forbes is!

This is the cleanest-rinsing cream ever. Cleaner than my Yardley soap even. It's weirdly NOT slippery feeling, and leaves no residue. Yet somehow, it's quite protective during the shave, and literally the first time I did NOT have to add more water to my lather. I don't know how they did it, but it's cool.

The aftershave is a balm, of course, and I missed the burn of my alcohol based aftershaves. I didn't feel... toned, somehow. Who knows. Maybe I like drying out my skin before rehydrating it?

Obviously, a superior "healing" balm, not at all sticky, actually quite nice. I might put this on AFTER alum and alcohol (I've only got one alum block, and it's in my gym bag - today's shave was at home).

Oh, speaking of which, I broke my no-two-shaves-two-days-in-a-row rule, and have been quite pleased with the result. I took xChris's double-pass-only advice, and... very nice. Not quiiiiiiite BBS, but easily passable, and no irritation.

Apparently I don't cut myself anymore. Must have passed some great cosmic "skills test" or something. Sweet! <knocking on wood>

And, I broke out one of Leo's stamped thewellhonedrazor Wapis (I'd been using an un-stamped ruprazor Wapi so far) and loved it. Yup, a Wapi's a Wapi, and they're my favorite.

I'm working on a small modified-Wapi collection for Leo, and am REALLY looking forward to showing it off after they're all made....... and then squirreling it away in a box for 12+ years.

 

greg, fill me in on the VDH Badger. I like the boar brushes a lot. That may be my first foray into a badger brush...

 

omegapd,

Van Der Hagen Ent. makes at least three brushes, two of which are available in stores (WalMart, CVS, etc.).

I think both the "Natural" Shave Brush and the "Deluxe" Shave Brush are 100% boar bristle, and only the handle differs.

However, if you call VDH directly at:
van der Hagen Enterprises
15390 Hwy 29 West #305
Liberty Hill, Texas 78642
512-778-5090

...they will mail you their "Premium" brush, which is badger hair on a wood handle, without taking any up-front payment, and will have an invoice for $20 attached to the outside of the box. You then mail them a personal check or whatever.

It's a weird, and refreshing approach to customer service, that's for sure.

I've only tried three brushes so far, an Omega boar, a Vulfix and this one, and this is a nice balance between the tiny floppiness of the Vulfix and the huge stiff bristles of the Omega. It's certainly a good "starter" badger brush!

Would you like to try it? I'd be happy to send you mine, and you can keep it if you like it. I got a fourth brush as part of a Speick kit that I've been meaning to use, so you can have this one to play with.

 

Very nice offer, my friend. I sent ya an email.

 

Shave #33:

La Toja shaving cream (thanks, Bong!)
Vulfix 2233
un-stamped Wapi WTG/XTG/too much ATG!
Anherb gel aftershave (thanks again, Bong!)
M7 cologne, Yves Saint Laurent (needed the Friday pick-me-up again!)

What an unusual shave! It's CRAZY how I keep doing things differently every day, messing things up, doing things better... it's a darn good thing my facial hair keeps growing back over and over again, 'cause I obviously need the practice.

La Toja is now officially my second favorite cream, after Musgo Real. I'm sorry, everyone, I very much doubt ANYTHING will ever knock that king off his throne.

The La Toja smelled wonderfully manly, just like all of their other products. It also rinsed off surprisingly well, and gave excellent drag to my razor. It was weirdly thick, though, but I think this is a function of all creams - and may be one reason some prefer soaps. There's something about creams that makes it seem more like you're scraping the cream off your face than using it to lubricate the hairs... I dunno, maybe I'm just weird.

The really strange thing, though, is how sore my face feels an hour after this shave. I have to say, I REALLY enjoyed the Anherb (you know, once I convinced it to gooze out of the container). It's got almost no scent, great menthol, and quite a nice feel on application. The gel somehow "instantly" melts into what amounts to more like a liquid, when you put it in your hand. And my face FEELS great to the touch, so it must moisturize well.

But why am I sore? My skin doesn't LOOK irritated... I know, it's probably because I shaved three days in a row, and because I was foolish enough to go ATG this morning - I figure I'm not going to shave again til Monday, so why not go for the gusto, right?

It hurts, that's why.

I know, it's all a learning process...

 

Shave #34:

Speick shaving cream
Speick shave brush
(another) stamped Wapi
Speick aftershave

I know nobody is reading this anymore, so now I'm documenting for my son's future reference.

Speick shaving cream kinda sucks. It seems much to thin to me, just about dissolved when I added water to it. Weird! And it smelled funny.

The little shave brush that came with my Speick shaving kit is obviously cheap, and lost lots of hairs on first use. NOW I know what a cheap crappy brush is like! I'll enjoy my Semogue that much more now, when it arrives!

One giant saving grace was the Speick aftershave. What a treat! Burned like the dickens for a second or two, but now 10 minutes later, my face feels GREAT. Like I didn't even shave. Cool, moisturized... I would even have to say REFRESHED. Now THERE's a word I haven't used in relation to shaving before. Awesome stuff, that!!! Get some!

 

That sounds too good to be true. I will have to keep this in mind!

We are still reading! I haven't tried Speick shaving cream but enjoy the soap. The A/S is great!

 

I'm with Justin....still reading the Saga....

I didn't have any trouble with Speick cream, although many people do not seem to like it....I enjoyed the scent, too....I thought it had a nice sharp spicy/pepper undertone to it, more so than the splash.... But, it was only a sample I had received from Shawn and I only got 3 shaves out of it IIRC, so take that FWIW....

 

I gotta give credit to this post by ClubmanRob.

 

NON-Shave day...

Hattric aftershave

Just for the record, I tried Hattric aftershave WITHOUT shaving first, and there is in fact NO actual napalm in it.

Apparently it only burns freshly shaved skin. Good to know!

And it's still one of the top 5 best-smelling aftershaves in the world. Seriously. MUST get the EDC version, dangit!!!

 

Shave #35:
La Toja sensitive shaving cream (thanks, Bong!)
Speick boar brush (which sucked less today)
Wapi (naturally!)
Anherb Conditioner (thanks, Bong!)
Hattric aftershave as cologne ('cuz what FOOL would put this on his face?!)

Shave #36:
Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet Shaving Soap (thanks, Bong!)
Speick boar brush
Wapi
Floid (Italian) Blue mixed with one drop of baby oil
Musgo Real aftershave as cologne

I've learned a few things from these last two shaves:

1. Penhaligon's makes some damn fine shaving soap!
2. Anherb briefly made me want to use balms instead of alcohol-based splashes... but only briefly. Yes, it's great stuff, and it smells very mild, and it's manly, and it works. But so does my new best-trick-ever, which is to add A SINGLE DROP of baby oil to the palm of my hand before pouring in any alcohol-based aftershave, then I mix the two in my hand, THEN apply to my face, which makes it juuuuuuust barely moisturizing enough to be hydrating without annoyingly sticky. Perfect!!! Try it!
3. The top note of Musgo Real is starting to annoy me. Too... "vegetal". Base note still rocks though.
4. The scent of Hattric STILL drives me (and my wife!) both gaga. Might have some cologne on the way! (if it makes it past German customs, that is......)
5. Floid Blue smells OK, but not as awesome a scent as some others. It still works great as an aftershave tho. Like slightly better Aqua Velva. Worth it long-term having to have bottles shipped over from Italy....? Probably not.
6. BBS really is possible with a straight razor! Shave #36 proved it. Not without the casualties of a few nicks and some minor irritation, mind you, but it's possible. Perhaps not WORTH THE TROUBLE, but that's a whole 'nuther story.

So my wife comes up to me, after the last shave, points to a small ~1.5cm faded red line on my chin (a days-old mark from a previous shave), and says "you know, that scar might be with you forever. I really like your handsome face. Is it worth it to scar your face just for a shave?"

A good question, to be sure. Let's see... straight razor shaving is slower, more difficult, more painful, and involves instruments that may potentially injure my son if he is careless with them. What's it worth to teach a man to do an easy job in a particularly difficult and dangerous way? How many "man points" does that give my boy? Hmmm...

Mmmm... on the other hand... I have Musgo Real on both forearms, and 50-year-old Old Spice aftershave (for fun) on my wrists. Now THAT's some man smell right there... hard to argue with any hobby that makes me smell this good.

PLAN FOR TOMORROW: In my quest for the ultimate EASY shaving regimen... I'm going to try to remember to try generic witch hazel with a drop of baby oil as my aftershave. That way, long-term, I can buy my aftershave supplies at the grocery, and won't stink up my boy's peanut butter sandwiches with aftershave-smelling hands. I might have to pour my Musgo Real and Hattric into atomizers, which is kind of girly, but not the worst thing in the world I guess. I wish they didn't suck so bad as aftershaves..... and I wish Musgo Real came as a cologne.

That's the trouble with aftershave vs. cologne. A 100mL spray bottle of cologne, put into a rotation, could literally last you years. The same 100mL bottle of aftershave? Maybe a couple months. Hard justifying saving bottles of aftershave for my son, if he'll use them up so quick. Perhaps better to get used to something in the grocery store, and get him to like that too? Too bad there's only Brut, reformulated and watered-down Old Spice, Aqua Velva and Clubman in the grocery... maybe that's why it's best to get used to witch hazel and baby oil. One less thing to fuss with (choosing an aftershave), one less thing to spend money on.

Hmm.. maybe a little bit of Osage Rub to add to the witch hazel/baby oil...

Plus, so far, Hattric is the only aftershave I've found that has a smell worthy of cologne use anyway. And if I can find that as EDC, I should be set. No more buying aftershaves for me!

Might have to buy some of that Penhaligon's though...

Holy CRAP I got a lot of stuff in the mail today. Vintagescent's shipment from Portugal of La Toja cream, 444 alum block and 444 aftershave cream, Black Aoud EDP from France, Noxzema shave cream from Italy, some Pinaud's Vanilla, BOTH Old Spice shave mugs I won off eBay, a used Ruprazor Wapi I got off some guy on Craigslist in another state (yay, Google!), and a "travel" Thiers-Issard strop from classicshaving that I'm going to promptly ship back because it's HUGE and not travel-sized at all. Feeling bad for buying all this stuff I'll probably resell anyway, but how else am I supposed to go through ALL the shaving stuff and pick out the very best for my boy?

The 1940's OS mug is WAAAAY cooler than the 70's mug, by the way. Neither one smells.

 

Will have to try that sometime. And here we come to where I am stuck and hesitant. Sure it is cool and I want to do it... but for what tangible reason?

*sigh*

keep it up!