Olive oil vs Mineral Oil vs Alcohol...

Discussion in 'Cartridge Razors' started by Sabre, Sep 11, 2015.

  1. Jerry-built Hustler

    Jerry-built Hustler Well-Known Member

    Now that's news I can use. In my ten years as a forum junkie, I haven't read this explanation. Thank you. A couple follow-up questions:

    - Are you saying galvanic corrosion isn't occurring when water is left in contact with a stainless steel razor blade?

    - I typically spray my razor blades with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Would you consider this as effective as dipping the head in alcohol?
     
  2. CyanideMetal

    CyanideMetal Wild and crazy guy

    No, but now that I think of it...LOL:happy102:

    When restoring TTO razors that have a gunked up internal mechanisms, an overnight soak in mineral oil always losens the gunk and frees the mechanisms. Also, mineral oil won't evaporate or go rancid. It's an excellent preservative and protective of metal.
     
  3. kurtmill

    kurtmill Active Member

    -Stainless steel does corrode, but at a very very slow rate. That's why it's called stainless and not stainfree. So the primary corrosion is coming from the MIC.

    -The isopropyl alcohol spray probably works fine.
     
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  4. DonMac

    DonMac Active Member

    :happy096:If you wash your carts in alcohol, and coat them in Olive Oil, they are now bacteria free, edible and quite tasty!
     
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  5. Sabre

    Sabre Well-Known Member

    I have had Sheffield Stainless Steel cutlery and normal carts go rusty. Cutlery blemishes, and carts go in the bin. I have plenty of carts, but would prefer they didn't have lot's of microorganisms on them during their short life...
     
  6. Mr. Shaverman

    Mr. Shaverman Well-Known Member

    They would disagree that olive oil is a food product? Lol. Okay.
     
  7. Mr. Shaverman

    Mr. Shaverman Well-Known Member

    http://www.oliveoiltimes.com/olive-oil-basics/good-olive-oils-gone-bad/8900

    And I'm talking about flies on your face outside, not vermin in your bathroom. Do as you'd like though, it apparently works for yu.
     
  8. Sabre

    Sabre Well-Known Member

    Some products are food grade, cosmetic grade and industrial grade. Thus they are food, cosmetic and industrial products. When you apply cocoa butter on you face as an emollient are you spreading a food ingredient or a cosmetic?
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2015
  9. Sabre

    Sabre Well-Known Member

    My face would be covered in shaving soap and a normal wash after shaving so I am perfectly safe. Thanks for your concern , it's appreciated...
    Fortunately being a highly skilled cook and aromatherapy enthusiast, I can spot a funky oil...
     
  10. Primotenore

    Primotenore missed opera tunity

    Article Team
    Rim shot, please...:happy102:
     
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  11. Sabre

    Sabre Well-Known Member

    OMG I just put food in the car, not in the boot aka trunk but the engine. Luckily the engine accepts vegetable oil, grains and sugar aka biodiesel/ethanol...
     
  12. engrsaks

    engrsaks Well-Known Member

    Nothing but J&J's Baby oil, works great for me. :D
     
  13. Jerry-built Hustler

    Jerry-built Hustler Well-Known Member

    This thread has gone off the rails.
     
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  14. engrsaks

    engrsaks Well-Known Member

    We can always steer it back in to its original track. :transport022:. IMO, mineral oil is second to none.
     
  15. entropy1049

    entropy1049 Well-Known Member


    Galvanic corrosion results from ion exchange between dissimilar materials. No ion exchange occurs between water and steel (though molecular changes will eventually occur), so no, no galvanic corrosion.

    Any animal or vegetable oil will have a tendency to become gummy and eventually solidify as it dries out if left exposed to the environment, with the rate of decomposition dependent on temperature, UV exposure, humidity, or other physical conditions. Mineral oil however will remain liquid, displace water, and is an excellent anti-corrosive.
     
  16. Jerry-built Hustler

    Jerry-built Hustler Well-Known Member

    For razor blades used short term, are there any other forms of corrosion (i.e., besides galvanic and microbial) that can come into play? More to the point, is using a disinfectant like alcohol sufficient to stop corrosion, because the greatest threat is microbial-induced corrosion, or is something like mineral oil still beneficial, because the presence of water can cause other problems? Again, I'm talking within the context of razor blades that are used for a duration of a few days or weeks and then discarded.
     
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  17. swarden43

    swarden43 "It's your shave. Enjoy it your way."©

    I just shave.
     
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  18. Jerry-built Hustler

    Jerry-built Hustler Well-Known Member

    Man, are you in the wrong place.
     
  19. entropy1049

    entropy1049 Well-Known Member

    I think the most immediate natural threat would be water left on the edge that would begin to rust and pit at such a small scale as to degrade the cutting edge, but not be apparent on the blade to the naked eye.

    The most ideal preventative I believe is to thoroughly rinse the blade from foreign materials (hair, shave cream, etc.), a quick immersion in ethyl or isopropyl alcohol (or other disinfectant...Barbicide and the like), and a quick dry followed by a light coat of mineral oil.

    For the very paranoid, or people with lots of extra time on their hands :).

    I'm a straight razor guy 99.99% of the time, and DE once in a blue moon. All I do with my DE blades (which may go unused for six months or so between uses) is rinse, disinfect, dry, and light mineral oil. Works fine. With straights I rinse thoroughly, dry thoroughly, and store in an airtight container with desiccant packs. Apples and oranges though...
     
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  20. MarshalArtist

    MarshalArtist Psychiatric Help 5¢

    I find it difficult to understand how these unusual, lithotrophic bacteria would be on your skin or your bathroom counter. If they aren't there, (they're not), you can be sure your razor blade is not being consumed by bacteria.
    Tap water that has come through metal pipes is usually slightly acidic. Over time that will dissolve the edge of your blade and there is little to be done but remove the water as soon as possible.
     

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