BTW, I have not repaired or replayed any safety razors. I own just 4 safety razors and really don't like my Parker butterfly. I much more partial to the Custom Shaving knurl 3 piece, the little Merkur 34C and have a Maggard OC on its way. I don't want too many choices as I have too many of most things I enjoy and have little storage room. I will grab a vintage razor at some pint and try the playing as I have the gear, but just learning the DE as I have done straits until now in the world of wet shaving. Gotta perfect one thing first. Trying to be somewhat true to the OCtober Focus group. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I hope I am not too late to jump in here: I wanted to share my experiences. I have had more than a dozen replates from the late Robert Smith (CooncatBob), the retired Sam D. (Krona Kruiser), Above the Tie (Stan), Razor Emporium, Hibco (Scott H.), RazorPlate (Chris E.), and OCRazorman (whose name I cannot now remember - and I don't know if he is still doing this!). Chris E. was really good about identifying what work was required to set the stage for a replate, and sent close-up pics of pitting and ragged edges that would require additional buffing; addionally, he declined some work where he felt the significant buffing required might degrade the integrity of the razor. I thought his finished products were exquisite. I really miss Bob and Sam. Scott Hibbs does really nice rhodium work, but I haven't had his replates long enough, yet, to make an unequivocal declaration. (But they are pretty!) Did I mention Scott's rhodium replates are really pretty? I didn't think any of the products by these people were priced at one extreme or the other, or wildly different from each other. I believe Chris has a waiting list, which speaks to his quality and reputation. Scott's turnaround time, as of last Spring, was phenomenal. Both of them spent lots of time on up-to-date communications. I hope this isn't a "wall of words" too boring to read. Tom
None too late. You're right on time! Thanks for bringing your experience to the forum Tom @TADIII . Most folks find their way to the Newbies section and make an introduction. Not required, but you will meet some great folks by announcing you have de-lurked.
You are reading up trying to decide where to send your new Blue Tip for a makeover, aren't you? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I might get it done, but then I'd have to do the other two. The Blue Tip is a little brassy under the base. First time I've seen one loose plating there.
It's hard to decide whether to do it or not, isn't it? I only have one (out of my 2) vintage Gillette that is a candidate. One day my mind is made up that I am going to send it in, the next day I think I like it better the way it is. Been going back and forth about it for a year or so. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Maybe it is time for an update on replating prices since there is interest from many. I was just on Scott Hibbs' website (Hibco). He charges $75 for replating regardless of what type of metal you choose. So nickel, which is usually the economy choice, and rhodium or gold, usually higher cost options, all cost the same. Return shipping is also included in that $75. Chris' website (RazorPlate) shows $55 plus return shipping for nickel and the site lists the return ship at $7.15, so about $62. He shows $120 + return shipping for rhodium. Nick's website (sportshave) shows 40-60 for nickel and 60-75 for rhodium and neither includes the cost of return shipping. Return shipping is listed currently as $2.85. RazorEmporium varies but cost for a new type with bar handle ranges from $99 for nickel to $139 for rhodium plus return shipping.
I have a jewelry quality plating machine with some solutions. Currently out of nickel but at least half of a rhodium bottle left and the appropriate anodes, cathodes. I might be putting this up in the classifieds soon as I used to use this a lot in watchmaking, but the eyes and hands just aren't as youthful, so I have drastically cut back. It's always an option to DIY plate but don't buy crap equipment or solutions. You can make a razor look very, very nice but buying new plating gear is pretty cost prohibitive. Playing services may seem high but to do it right takes some skills and good gear. Just as a BTW a single 1gram solution of rhodium can run you between $175-$300. It sure makes things like a spouses wedding ring with white gold look magnificent. IMO razors look great with nickel, 18k rose gold (nickel playing required first) and rhodium. Enjoy customizing those favorites. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can make a razor look very, very nice but buying new plating gear is pretty cost prohibitive. Plating services may seem high but to do it right takes some skills and good gear. True. All of these vendors do some serious prep before plating. Removal of laquer and old plating, cleaning, buffing, and quick acid baths.
The jeweler I had make our wedding ring set offered to plate my white gold ring in rhodium, but I still don't see the point. If you're going to rhodium plate, just use brass 10k white gold; hard as crap, and if I give it a quick buff, it looks just fine when we go out. I'm in computer services/repair/consulting, so I rarely wear jewelry because I never know where my hands will go. I've thought about putting together a nickel plating system for myself. Price-wise, it's pretty cheap, but I'm having a REALLY hard time tracking down what to do with the solution once it's completely exhausted. A jewelry grade system would be fantastic, but probably out of my price range.
We just have 14k white gold, which is an oxymoron as you point out. I designed it, had a jeweler make the wax cast and then had a high palladium content 14k WG used. Rhodium is much cheaper than Platinum but regardless most stones are set in a 14K white gold as the tips of the prongs need to be soft enough to set a gem securely but strong enough not to lose the gems. 10K isn't readily available for holding gems, hence most people rhodium plate everything. If you look at different auctions you can find jeweler grade plating equipment for about $125. That's what I paid from a guy that bought stock from a small chain going out of business. My best friend is a gemologist and his father a lifelong watchmaker and their family has run its own shop in Rochester, NY. Their system and solutions are quite expensive but again I bought my plating system previously owned. I can find rhodium solution, or I have in the past for $150/gram out of Boston in the past. The 18K Rose Gold solution was much less at about $80, but of course with precious metals prices vary. The Jewelry store used to never work with Silver but the 2008- prices of gold and Platinum really hurt small family run Jewelers as had Swatch and Rolex demanding all watches be sent to authorized factories for refurbishing with warranty. They carry very few watches now but still do plenty of tune ups. The coat almost all silver with rhodium now so the oxidation doesn't occur. It's a strange metal but it works and looks great. Besides the solutions and a solid jeweler grade machine it's pretty easy to obtain the lab ware, anodes, cathodes and cradles, etc from either eBay or searching the net. So much of watch work requires almost as steady hands as a surgeon and even with Big magnifying glass units and the eye visor etc, it's painstaking work. The grumbling and anger you get as its way too easy to mess up something simple has me just doing bigger objects and just for personal gear or family. I to don't wear jewelry except a watch. I saw a guy in Combat Medic training forget to remove his wedding ring while training and go over a high wall. The ring caught on a raised nail and instantly popped his finger off. That was enough for me, as well as he repeated hand washing doing hospital work to just have no desire to wear rings, necklaces, or anything but a watch as they will break before removing a hand. Not that I'm using heavy belted machinery or popping over walls with an immediate nature. Still I'm a sucker for a beautiful watch. I used to do dial work, hands work and some movement cleaning and plating of cases, depending upon the watch. I used to have an Omega that was rhodium coated stainless. It was quite sharp, but now my buddy the gemologist wears it. I always worried if I wore a nice watch while on a motorcycle, would predispose me to wiping out or getting hit. Insurance would be tricky even if I wasn't hurt. In the end I sold all the Omega watches save one. Dang sports and such for making me slightly superstitious even when my brain knows there is no such thing. I mostly wear micro brand watches like Squale, Steinhart and Helson these days along with a few others. Still automatic movements enchant me. I have about 24 different watches. We all suffer from some acquisition disorders. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mine's a plain band. The jeweler made it for me by taking a bar of gold, rolling it, and welding it into place. He couldn't find one in his catalogs either. That's a lot cheaper than I thought, but probably still overkill for me - I'm just looking at nickel. How did you dispose of the used solution? I have several pocket watches - I use them for flying, trips, and things like Jury Duty. Much nicer than playing with a cellular phone, and my body chemistry eats watches. Plastic, metal, quartz, and even wind-up. Internal spot welding in a wind-up watch is kind of cool to see, but frustrating.
Bumping the thread with some info gathered by @LOOT. Chris "CAP" Smith Master Razor Mechanic vintagerazorrepair@gmail.com RazorPlate www.razorplate.com Chris Evatt chris@razorplate.com North Shore Razors Scott F northshorerazors@outlook.com http://www.northshorerazors.com/ Delta Echo Razor Works http://www.deltaechorazors.com deltaechorazors@outlook.com
CAP and Razorplate work as a team you can easily coordinate with them. I sent my razors to CAP, he cleaned and sent the parts to Chris at Razorplate, then Chris returned them to CAP for reassembly and adjustment. Sensational results.
Thanks @Herm2502 Yes, the Black Beauty would be a difficult razor because of the aluminum handle. Most BBs are pitted and have holes in the handles from corrosion on the inside. Both of my examples are all brass Slims that I gave to my brother's as gifts (birth year razors). The first in all nickel and the second in black rhodium with nickel accents (blade base, adjuster, etc.).
