Rubberset 400 Restoration Projects

Discussion in 'The Brush' started by DaltonGang, Jun 10, 2022.

  1. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Rubberset 400 "4"

    This came with a straight razor, on ebay, and it was a steal.
    Rubberset 400 b.jpg

    Rubberset 400 a.jpg

    About 10 minutes on the buffing wheel.
    I am thinking of saving the knot, if I can lighten the color out some.


  2. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    I cleaned up the knot, and gave it a go, with a shave. It feels like a cheap synthetic knot. Stiff, and scritchy. I don't care if it is original, it is getting tossed. I have a new Omega 10066 boar, that will be donating its hair, for this handle.
    But, I will try the original knot, a little longer, to see if it breaks in.
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2022
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  3. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Well, I lightened the knot up some.

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  4. Jorvaljr

    Jorvaljr Operation Daytona 8000

    How did you lighten the knot some
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  5. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Quite dangerously. First, hydrogen peroxide soak. That had little effect.
    I got annoyed, then rinsed most off, and soaked in bleach. I let the chemical reaction happen between the two chemicals. It heated up, as I swished it around, and it started foaming. I quickly rinsed and soaped it, to remove all chemicals. Viola, it worked, I didn't die, and the bristles didn't melt.
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2022
  6. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    I'm kind of liking this original knot and will keep it a while longer.

  7. AussieTanker

    AussieTanker New Member

    looks fantastic. Can you tell me a little more about the buffing wheel that you used? What they look like, brand etc. Were you concerned that the wheel would be too aggressive and take away too much material?

    would appreciate your thoughts on it

    Ijustmissedthe50s likes this.
  8. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Not really worried about taking too much off. I used the compound intended for gold and silver. As for the wheel it is a cotton cloth buffing wheel, 6 in, or so. Basic buffing wheel, that I've used in razor restorations for years.
    Lancre likes this.
  9. AussieTanker

    AussieTanker New Member

    Thanks for the reply @DaltonGang ..

    I should have framed the question more clearly. I have read about the cloth wheels on various threads on here.

    I meant the actual machine that you use. I know that there are smaller machines made specifically for jewellery and then some machines can be quite large. What brand do you use and how big / small / powerful etc is the machine? Are there any particular features that are important for our purposes of restoring our razors
    Ijustmissedthe50s likes this.
  10. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Excuse the mess, I've been splitting wood, and tools are all around. The wheel on the right is for more abrasive compounds, and it is time to be replaced.
    Harbor Freight brand. 1/2 hp 6 inch. If I were to do it over again, I would get the 3/4 hp one. The 1/2 hp is adequate though.


  11. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Heads up
    I decided to replace the knot. The original knot was just too unpleasant to use. I have a donor brush/knot in the waiting.
    Long story short: getting the ferrule off seemed impossible, without damaging it. I tried the ways @Enrico suggested, with penetrating oil, rubber bands for a better grip, etc. Even with the best grips on the handle, the ferrule wasn't giving. Here is what I did:

    Ok, I tried soaking in penetrating oil, since Sunday(3 days), and trying to loosed the ferrule,. No dice. I was afraid the pressures being exerted on the handle/ferrule would damage something.
    So, I thought about what happens to aluminum, after 80-90 years of oxidation, inside the threads, along with the shave soaps penetrating and drying in the threads. Therefore, heat might dissolve and loosen things up. Just like we do for old razors.
    So, into hot water it went, in a pot. I turned the heat on low, so as not to boil, and expand the.metal too fast. After an hour, I rapidly cooled the brush/handle. It now easily came off, with minimal pressure. I used a rubber glove to get a grip on it. Zero damage, with only discoloration of the aluminum that should buff out easily.
    I hope this method saves a lot of headaches, and damage to these fine old brushes.
    I will post pics asap.
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  12. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Here is the brush, disassembled. If you look, the surface looks very tarnished, and spotty. This was caused by the tap water, and being heated on the stovetop for an hour. The tap water is hard, and has lots of chlorine smell to it. Next time, I will try Distilled water, and see what happens. Just to make sure the Aluminum wasn't damaged, I polished up a little bit. It polished up, very nice and bright, like the previous pics. So, I will save the polishing until the knot is properly set. Next will be the knot removal. The part I dislike the most.

    Not polished.
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  13. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Handle polished a little, to test.

  14. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Next step:
    Remove the glue. Tape up, and use as large of a "Spade Bit" drill bit as possible, without touching the sides of the handle. Tape Tape Tape. I secured it in a bench vise, with plenty of towel to cushion and protect. The Spade Bit helps start the hole, and keep it on track. I left the knot intact, to get a better hold on it. You can cut it if you want, but that is not needed. The drilling will take out most of the hair. Before this step, I tried boiling and loosening the glue. No dice the glue is like a rock. So, drilling is a must.

    The glue has a horrible smell to it, and dust, chips go flying. But it washes off easily, without a stink afterward.

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  15. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Next step:
    Put the handle back together, and tape the entire thing, to protect the threads, and the finish. Tape to the very edge of the ferrule, and cut as much of the knot out as possible.


    I then, by hand, use a Dremel, with a small sanding bit on it. I turn the speed down low, and carefully work the inside, blowing the dust out, and wiping the inside, often. Make sure not to hit the aluminum inside, too much. I also angle it so the edge of the ferrule isn't ground down. The inside can get scraped, but that isn't a worry, because it will not be seen. All the glue doesn't need to be removed, just enough to fit the new knot.

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  16. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Polishing out the Tarnish

    This was fairly simple and fast, but I think the next time I will try to steam the Brush/Handle, to get them separated. This way I might avoid the tarnish. I will also use distilled water. I could have spent a little more time with the polish, but I need to work on a knot.

    Last edited: Dec 17, 2023
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  17. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    I just received an
    Omega 10049.

    The other Omega that I was going to use was too narrow at the base.


    I put the brush in a bench vise, and used a fine bladed hacksaw to cut just deep enough to see the plastic cup that holds the knot. I then took a flat head screwdriver and pried several cut areas, to loosen the knot, in the plastic holder(cup). It was fast and easy. No saving the brush handle.

    I then put the knot with the plastic holder back in the vise, and made two more cuts, but was careful not to go into the glue plug, holding the knot. I only had to lightly pry this area, and the knot popped loose. Very fast and easy. I then used a bench grinder, a Dremel Tool would work, just not as much control. I Ground and fit the knot, until I was happy.


    I then used some 5-Minute Epoxy, and set the knot inside, with just a couple of dots of epoxy on the base. I checked the alignment and how straight everything was until it set up. Being satisfied, I then mixed a larger amount of epoxy and poured it in, letting it set nicely. All the while I was careful not to get any on the threads. I also polished the handle better, before setting the knot. All nice and shiny. Now it just needs to completely cure, overnight.

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  18. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Rubberset 400-No Number.

    This will be my next restoration. No need to fiddle with getting the Ferrule off. It twisted loose by hand. This one is in very good shape. The knot looks good, but it is loose, and shedding hairs pretty bad. I am just at odds as to what knot to use. I would like to try a synthetic Boar, but there is only one that is made, that I know of.

    Last edited: Jan 4, 2024
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  19. AussieTanker

    AussieTanker New Member

    Beautiful work! Thank you for explaining the process. Can you please explain how you polished the handle and exactly what it is that you are curing?

    Is it cheaper the use one of these inputs than to buy a bore knot that hasn't yet been "installed" into a brush handle?

    Really appreciate your detailed explanation. It's very helpful, especially with the pictures!
    DaltonGang likes this.
  20. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    I use a Bench Mounted buffing wheel, with fine polishing rouge, meant for gold and silver.
    Curing. After epoxy sets, its true hardness doesn't happen for many more hours, sometimes days. This depends on the manufacturer. Mine is done in 12 hrs. But, feels really hard at only 5+ minutes.

    It might be cheaper to just buy a plain knot, but several boar knots that I've tried were shedders. Omega, Zenith, are two inexpensive and truly exceptional brushes, that are perfect to use on their own, or as donors. The Omega and Zenith boars usually are not shedders, and I haven't heard of them being shedders, ever. Plus, under $10 for an exceptional boar brush(Omega) is the norm. Finding a mediocre boar knot for around $15 is the usual cost. This advice was for boar knots.
    Synthetics are easily found and inexpensive on their own, same for badger, and I've not had issues with these shedding like some boars.
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