Safety Razors: My Trip from Mild to Aggressive

TEST DRIVE TIME:
This morning I took the opportunity to try the unique G.E. Jones Shake Sharp razor. The razor is a solidly-built, and feels good in the hand. The handle, although a bit shorter than I am used to, is fairly thick. It reminds me quite a bit of the Gillette Red Tip super speed or the fat handle that came on my Tech.

Here is the U.S.-made Shake Sharp amidst the Teutonic Goliaths in my assortment. You'll notice the handle is comparable in girth to the other longer razors. It is nicely textured for a secure grip.


I loaded into the razor an Astra Platinum blade. The Astras are numbered, which in the case of a single-edged razor using a DE blade, is convenient for keeping track of the 'used' edge when flipping or rotating the blade for each use.
To load a blade requires some practice, I discovered, as it was unlike any razor I have used previously. It requires the sliding and lifting of the hinged cap, setting the blade onto a notch on the base, and sliding back the cap until it clicks into place. Once I accomplished this and felt the top was secure, I was ready to shave.

The razor is obviously not shy about exposing blade edge. However, having used successfully other VERY aggressive razors, I was not intimidated.


On to the actual shave: A good conditioning face prep and lather preceded the shave. The angle is slightly different than a standard DE razor. It is not difficult to achieve the proper shaving angle with the broad, rounded head, and once you find it, you are rewarded with a VERY audible feedback of the razor mowing down stubble. I was able to get an extremely close shave on one pass—rivaling, I dare say, the Mühle R-41 in closeness (!) after a single pass—AND, I might add, with no irritation. A second lathering and another pass left my face close to BBS. A little touch-up on the throat and I was finished!
CONCLUSION: What great shave! I am very impressed with this 'little' razor. My experience this morning certainly warrants a repeat performance!

My thanks to Jacob (Weeper Warrior) for 'planting the seed' and to Ryan Foster (PLANofMAN) for his generosity for giving me the opportunity to try this razor.

If you wish to learn more about this unique and quite-competent razor—especially it's 'shake & sharpen' feature for which it is named, I encourage you to further read Ryan's thread of the Shake Sharp. Plenty of great info and experiences with it from him and other users:
http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/the-shake-sharp-razor.29757/

 

Yes, you are correct. Sorry for my confusing description— I corrected where I typed 'cap' instead of 'base' in outlining the process. Fixed.

I really was pleasantly surprised at not only how close the shave was, but how 'mild'—mild in the sense there was no post-shave rawness or tenderness one can get from razors considered 'aggressive.' I will give it another go this morn—probably flip the blade over—and see how Day 2 compares to yesterday's.

 

Day 1 with the 2011 R41...Certainly a little intimidated looking at the crazy blade exposure. I went with my trusty Gillette Silver Blue, which has worked well for me in every razor I have tried. There was some great audio feedback as I started in (more than any other razor I've tried). Things started off fairly well, until I got to my chin, where I had to be extra careful not to pull some skin. I ended up finishing my normal (3) pass WTG/XTG/ATG and probably should have left things well enough alone after the XTG. Well, I ended up with BBS plus a couple weepers, no nicks or anything. However, I was unwilling to put an alcohol splash on after what the alum had to tell me! Definitely a razor that will force you to work on your technique! I'm not giving up yet, though I may take a day off. We'll see how the skin recovers...Any tips on this razor Kevin?

 

Chris, I rarely will go ATG as I have discovered my skin just doesn't react well— it is easily aggravated. This applies to just about ANY razor I use, and because of the aggressive nature of the R41, I tend to avoid it altogether. In most instances, I get so close after two passes, the third is purely optional.

Here's a couple of tips that seem to work for me on the Mühle—

• I use my BEST lubricating pre-shave treatment, and my 'best' (think 'slippery') soap.
• Razor angle— because of the amount of blade exposure and gap, angle is critical to get a comfy close shave. It takes some experimentation, but I found the shallower angle provides the best and most comfortable shave (photo on left).

• Use a SHARP blade. I know some folks like Derbys and other blades in the R41, but my fav are either the Feathers or Personna meds. With other blades I get some tugging and pulling. Ouch!
• KEEP a light touch throughout, especially on the tough problem areas.
• No alcohol post-shave. Just soothing balms for me—until my facial skin gets acclimated the the closeness the R41 provides. Comparable, I've heard, to when one starts shaving with a straight razor for the first few times.
• Be patient. Once you get the 'feel' for this razor, you will be rewarded with some terrific shaves!

 

Interesting...Seems like the blade angle may have been the culprit. Certainly a different blade angle than I would use with most of my other razors. The lather I used was ridiculous (AOS Lavender Tallow + AOS Lavender Cream + Glycerine), and the pre-shave is pretty solid too. I may throw a feather in there next time, though I will probably try one in my 38c first. I haven't even tried the blade yet. Thanks for the input! The pics are helpful too, other than the fact that it looks like some male model is staring at you!

 

Crankin' the Dial: I've had about a 1/2 dozen shaves as of now (notice I didn't use the idiom 'under my belt'—which in context with shaving sounds a bit odd) using my new Merkur Futur. I started at a conservative setting (2 to 3 on the 1-6 scale), but have progressively dialed it up, and the past few shaves have been at the '5.5-6' (the MAX setting). Surprisingly, even 'wide open,' the Futur still provides an exceptionally smooth shave. I am accustomed to using a light touch with aggressive razors, and that history allowed my to shave with confidence using this razor. But some razors still remind you of the amount of blade exposure (such as the R41), and keep you always alert when shaving. The Futur shaves DARN close at the max setting, but never uncomfortably. Additionally, my face felt no aggravation or irritation post-shave. With other more aggressive razors, there can be some 'tender' spots post-shave, but this has not been the case with this Merkur.

With a bit more experience, I'll find the 'sweet' spot on this razor (somewhere between 1 and 6) and probably leave it there for most shaves. The max setting is great, but since my beard is light, it may be overkill for daily use. As part of a regular razor rotation, I may tone the Futur down to the 4 or 5 setting. I'll have to see where I wind up after more shaves.

The is a very nice adjustable that can be a 'fierce' as the user wishes, but without the associated cost in blood-letting or irritation.

 

Next up.... the SEs!

 

I am dying to try an agressive razor but don't know where to start. Slant? open comb? The idea of the adjustables doesn't appeal to me and I dont want to drop more than $45.00 or $50.00 either.
I have several DE razors (probably like everyone ealse here) but all of them are mild shavers, most times 3 pass razors.
Can someone who owns and uses an aggresive razor please give me some suggestions.
Just to give you an idea, my EJ89 , allthough a sweet tool, is a mild one.

 

A Merkur 37c slant is in your price range and might work well for you.

 

You can order the R41 (which everyone who likes aggressive razors seem to like) at connaught shaving for under $40 shipped. Will take couple weeks or so to though.

 

Fatips can be had for less than $40. Open-comb blade exposure!

The R41s come up on the used market with some frequency. You'd be hard pressed to find a MORE aggressive razor than the 2011 version. The '2013' is supposedly more forgiving.

The 39c or 37c slant would be the 'mildest' in feel—although it does provide a very close shave. When I use the slant now, I'm hard pressed to 'feel' the difference from the 38c. Same size & weight, but the slant hits BBS in two passes where I require 3 on the 38c.

There's a Shake sharp razor going 'round between members (see here: http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/the-shake-sharp-razor.29757/).

SE razors can be had for minimal investment.

 

wonderful, thanks for all the good advise. As allways, great info

 

My 2 favorites are the Futur and the Cobra. My only complaint is about the Futur. It is too smooth and slippery when wet. Also the head is too large to shave cleanly under my nose and jaw line. The second problem I have solved by using both razors for one shave. I use the Futur for most of my face and the Cobra on my upper lip and jaw line. As for the first problem the slippery nature of the Futur I am thinking of sandpapering my fingertips prior to shaving.

 

Barry, I've never tried a Cobra—yet all I hear about it is good things from those shavers who make it a regular part of their shave routine. Some day...

I actually like the fat-head of the Futur under my nose. For some reason, I feel I have better control 'pushing' the nose up with it to nip those pesky whiskers in the nostril region. I do agree about the Futur being a bit slick in the fingers. To counteract the slipperiness, I've taken to doing a quick finger rubdown with an alum block between latherings. This helps me feel a bit more confident holding the razor. I've seen where other Futur owners have slid rubber 'pen grips' onto the handle to ensure a firm grip. I considered this route, but I hate to mess with the sleek, streamline look of the razor (yeah, I know, not the most practical reasoning).
Also, I think I'd skip this treatment....

 

So then I am correct in assuming ALL open comb razors are more aggresive than closed combs?

View attachment 43401
what about thease Matadore OC's?

I like the red

 

No. Not at all. Some are, some are not. It all is based on the head geometry and the amount of blade gap, not if the razor has a comb or a bar.

 

It's my opinion that the whole 'open comb means more aggressive' statement is one of those internet forum perpetual myths that get propagated in every forum or shaving discussion. If you hear about it or read about it enough, it must be true! Steve's comments are spot-on with regards to some OC razors may be more aggressive (FaTip, for example), where others, no more or less than bar razors. In fact, there's a thread about the 'Least Aggressive Merkur' where the 15C (open comb) was considered 'mildest.'



Re:The Matador OCs...supposedly the blade gap is comparable to the FaTips, per those who have measured such things =a pretty aggressive OC if that is true. Smooth, but aggressive, like the FaTips.

 

Open combs are, in theory, less prone to clogging if you have a heavy beard and/or skip a couple of days shaving. You know the old saw about theory and practice only being the same thing in theory, right? Generally, the difference is aesthetic.

 

+1

I've got a 15C which is my #1 choice if I don't skip days. It's the mildest razor I own.
The 15C's "alter ego" is the Fatip Piccolo. For me, it's the best razor for 2+ days growth.

Astra SP's seem to work best in my 15C.
For reasons that I don't understand the Fatip works wonderfully with Derby's. 2 passes and BBS. Go figure...