I would think not. Needs to be Paste Stropped or Honed. On a side note..noticed Will has his SOS saying he stropped the hell out of it. Alot of people at SRP suggest stropping before you shave. I had posted awhile ago....about stropping the night before, and the census was that you should strop before you shave....that if you do it the night before....you basically let the metal go back to the original state before you shave. I have alot of knowledge of these things, yet im still very much learning myself. So if im wrong....please chime in.
I stroped after and before the shave. After to help dry the the razor and get the edge, before the shave just for good measure. Is that good or bad?
Several experiments have been conducted in the area of stroping. to the best of my knowledge result are inconclusive in the area of before or after. As far as the number of laps is concern anything pass 30-40 on each side wont make a big difference if the blade is shave ready. Remember the strop just makes the blade ready and alings the edge, it does not sharpens, therefore maintaining the edge sharp and shave ready. It is difficult to tell if your edge is dull. I have brought back edges that seemed dull back to shave status with stroping so it may be not be a total loss yet. One of the reasons for stroping after is to heat the edge of the blade so as to dry it and hence prevent rust from forming on the edge. It also realigns the micro serrations on the edge. I strop before and after 10 -15 laps. I have blades that I have been using for months without the need for refreshing on a hone. It can be done, there is no magic trick just learning the technique will do the trick. Raf
Also, all blades are different so they will react different when strop and honing meaning some will require a few more laps other less laps. Getting to know your blade is important. Raf
True. It might not be a total loss. Good stropping technique can resurrect a nearly-there edge. Sometimes after I hone it seems "okay," and then maybe after the second shave (with good stropping technique) it seems "just right."
Haha....... After you learn it....then you get that COOL factor. Carry your cut throat in your boot....shave wherever
Check this video, it shows Alexander's ( LX_Emergency at SRP ) honing and stropping. The stropping at the end http://video.google.nl/videoplay?docid=-2761594301842672864
Bobby, If I recall correctly, you got the Tony Miller #1 Best Strop (Original - no D-ring or handle). Use the canvas side first, and do 45-60 laps on each side of the blade. Next, go to the smooth-side of the latigo leather; complete 45-60 laps on each side of the razor. Use enough pressure to keep the spine and edge in contact, but also enough to feel a slight drag. Stretching is of utmost importance with a straight razor -- much more so than a DE. For both of the blades you have, lean the blade out the same distance to 1.5 times the width of the spine (i.e., no more than 1/4in. and likely closer to 3/16in.). As you make your stroke/pass, make sure that you feel the blade touching to the skin -- this will literally only be a 2-3 pounds of pressure. For a check of cutting action, wipe the lather off of the blade (from spine to edge, and careful not to go over the edge itself) to see if you've got whiskers mixed in with it (should have some dead skin too). If the edges are indeed toasted, then we'll make arrangements for a swap.
I shaved today before reading this... I will try it tomorrow. I did manage to shave today, but it took more passes than it should have, and my face feels sunburned. I was determined to shave with the straight alone, lol. I'll try the honing technique for tomorrow.
A tale of two shaves I got my package the other day, consisting of the following: Kobar 6/8 straight razor Westen Holm 4/8 straight razor Dovo Best Russian hanging strop TM Travel paddle strop The above information was taken off the customs/shipping label. What a cool package! Tonight I tried the 6/8 straight, with no additional stropping (thinking I had read about this SER pass-around that the razors would come shave-ready). I had, what one can call, a horrible first run. I started WTG, on the cheeks only, and regardless of blade angle (from flat on my face all the way to almost 90 degrees) there was major tugging, pulling, and practically no actual cutting of any sort. So, I figured, I need to strop this bad boy. Here's where my inexperience came in to play. I've read Chris Moss's straight razor .pdf, and there was even an instructional two-page paper from Dovo on how to hone/strop included in this package. However, I really REALLY need to practice my stropping. I went slow and deliberate, concentrating on not lifting the actual razor AT ALL, and instead rolling the razor on the spine only for my back-and-forth passes. Same result. Pulling, tugging, etc. I ended up busting out my Feather ACD-N Japanese razor with a Pro Guard blade, and finishing my first pass with it. Then followed up with the good old trusty Fatboy. Don't get me wrong, it was an awesome experience, and I was amazed at the amount of oil on the blades when I first opened the straight razors. Is that to keep them from rusting? Should I be oiling these straights after every use? If so, what kind(s) of oil should I get? More to follow... MUCH more.... once I get this whole "stropping" thing down!
When unused how bout a Feather AC pass. I like the SER shaving but I don't think I would like maintaning one.
Thats the next step in the evolution in Straight learning for me. Could always send them to someone like Lynn for 20 bucks....Bam....new edge which should last a few months.
The razors are (if my technique isn't crap) shave ready, but always require stropping on the leather first before shaving for optimum performance and comfort. The oil on the razors is Ballistol (mineral oil based). I coat them when shipping, as I never know what the environmental conditions (e.g., humid or damp) they will be subjected to in transit -- most of the razors are carbon steel instead of stainless. Just rinse the blades off under hot water to remove the excess. You'll have to use more pressure in the stroke than you do with the Feather ACs, and make sure you're stretching adequately. For the stropping, use just a slight bit of pressure to create some drag, and see if that helps the edge draw out like it should.
