Nice thread. Any recommendations for a bond that holds the knot I place but makes one able to get it out with force rather than have to drill it out?
I haven't done it yet, but I am thinking that I'm going to try to use golf shafting epoxy (mostly because I already have it on hand). It's very strong, so you can use it sparingly. It's waterproof. You can get versions that dry very quickly (5 mins). Cleans up with mineral spirits or a good wipe down before it's working time is expired. In golf clubs you use heat to break the epoxy bond to separate the head from the shaft. Golf club repairers use a torch or a heat gun. You can imagine how that will go with a shave brush. But, heat should work with brush knots. Though, you'll have to get the material above 200F for awhile before you can pull the knot. You can try this: But, if you want to preserve the knot, then I think I would just buy another brush. Even with indirect heat it will be hard to preserve the integrity of the knot. But, everyone can make a double boiler from stuff in their kitchen. Or, you might just boil the brush for awhile. That might soften the existing glue.
I saw a YouTube video about removing knots. Place the brush in a Pyrex bowl put bowl in a pot with water. Boil for 30-40 minutes. Knot should pull right out nice and clean.
Alright, so I did this and this is what happened to my vintage brushes after 30 mins in the double boiler. I managed to salvage the black one, but the others scrap Bakelite now. None were expensive, nor valuable, but it would've been fun to get them back to usability. From now on it's the drill and Dremel for me on any of my others. I know some of you have had success with steam and double-boiling, but I'll not do that again. Here's a photo of the black handle with a Maggard 22mm Synthetic. It's no-name, but it looks just like an Ever Ready that I have.
Your results, and my results here ---> http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/finally-jumpin-in.34103/ , are why I will NEVER again use any sort of heat to remove a knot.
