Straight suggestions a.k.a. Take My Money!!!

I have a few vintage straights but was thinking of getting a new one just so I can compare. So far, I've been leaning toward the Dovo Bismarck or Bergischer Lowe. I like what I have read about Thiers Issard and how smooth the French steel is but I also have heard that they don't really have even plunge lines and sometimes there are cosmetic flaws that TI chalks up to being a handmade product, which would irk me a little if I'm being honest. The Grim Blades Grim Dollar is interesting but I'm leery because its sooo inexpensive. I prefer a round point but am open to others as well (note the above models).

Before I pull the trigger on a new production razor I figured I'd collect some anecdotal evidence from those of you who have been doing this a while. I'm setting a budget of <$300 but I'm not afraid of spending much less than that if the razor is good AND inexpensive.

So, what say you?

 

Thiers Issard are excellent razors. I like them better than modern Dovos. All modern made razors are honed at factory but not like the vintage ones, so you would need to refine the edge after buying a new one. I don't know what you mean by not having "plunge lines". I have never had a problem with TI's and I have a few as well about 100 razors more of other other makes. If you get razors, vintage or new with decent steel from a competent maker, you should get a good edge and good shave. I always think vintage razors are a much better deal than new ones with a proven history. Also, what are you trying to compare?

 

Good info @lindyhopper66, thanks! I read somewhere that the TIs have non-shave related cosmetic issues like uneven plunge lines and maybe a thicker stabilizer from one side to the other, etc. It doesn't affect performance just aesthetics which I don't really care about on a used vintage razor but new stuff I seem to care immensely.

I'm wanting to compare how new razors shave and hone up compared to vintage. I know it'll be comparing apples and oranges but I'd still like to see.

Also, I'm wrestling with the idea of getting several used vs the cost of one new but it'll still not scratch my itch of what a new razor is like. It's dumb, I know. Also, I'm having a hell of a time trying to put into words what I'm looking for in comparing a new razor.

 

Bismarck is a well loved razor here it seems... quite a few of us have one.
For me, it seemed a little smaller in hand than I thought from the pics. Here is a shot comparing against a pre-Dovo Bismarck.

I love the look of the blades you are looking at, and that is an important part of the experience for me... and I love a good thumbnotch.

If you need any specifics, I can try more detail.
Tom

 

I still have never heard of plunge lines and I haven't heard of problems with TI's. The newer razors give you a lot less value for a lot more money if you are buying artisan made razors. You are comparing apples to apples. It's all in the bevel angle and type of steel and grinds (whether it's a wedge, extra hollow, half hollow, etc.). Many of my razors were new old stock when I bought them and shaved well right from the start without having to finish the honing. Some of the newer artisan razors I have are heavier and clunky and lack the simple useful style of say a Japanes razor, but if you want a new razor get one and I would say TI's are the best bang for your buck.

 

Lots of great information so far.

One other current maker which may fit the budget and makes nice razors is Ralf Aust. It’s Solingen steel. His blades can be found on some websites that also sell Dovo & TIs. After that, it starts getting into the artisan blade makers I think.

 

And in the new razor/artisan category in your budget is the Rigarazor. He sells on eBay and the shave, looks, and quality are outstanding. He makes multiple styles and sizes - here’s mine:

 

...but you can find plenty of awesome vintage razors in your budget, too. What do you have now? If you’re looking to compare, look for another country, grind, size, etc. Lots of good Sheffield’s, Solingens, etc. for reasonable prices if you spend a little time hunting eBay or the B/S/T boards of forums.

 

Plunge lines being uneven from one side to the other and stabilizers not being even/symmetrical are (or were (or weren't and now are) ) are a complain't I've seen. Everyone has sung high praises on the steel and the razor's ability to shave. The comments were in comparing the build quality between German razors of multiple brands and TI's and how when TI was very "French" about it when contacted stating that the razor was fine and that some inconsistencies were to be expected from a handmade item. I'm knock knocking TIs at all, just parroting back what I read. It makes me hesitate to shell out good money for something that many manufacturers control while one in particular doesn't. Again, it's aesthetic on a straight more than anything else. It can matter on a hard use knife but not so much on a straight.

I was looking at some of his and was wondering if it was actually some other maker rebranded. "Solingen" seemed like an awfully generic thing to be etched onto a blade. Glad to know he is the maker.

I have a 7/8 W&B "For Barber use Only", a 5/8 W&B Lather Well/Shave Well etched, and a 3/8 Kintaka Japanese razor (all razor sizes are quesses/approximate. I've always been nervous buying used from eBay, even DEs but especially straights. I've been using a straight off and on for the better part of a decade but never developed my knowledge well enough to confidently buy from eBay. Hell, I just learned about how to test the flatness of a razor 3 days ago. I guess my risk is a lot lower now that I know how to set a bevel but it'll still cause a bunch of hone wear if I ended up with a really warped razor someone was trying to dump.



If anyone knows anything about that little stone on the bottom let me know. It's a mystery stone at the moment. Stone to the left is the Scott's Carbo barber's hone I have.

 

I found out plunge lines are terms used for knives not straights. Your example is a knife. What you read about TIs is incorrect. They are no more handmade than Aust or Dovo, etc.

 

I understand but the term was used for a straight in the pages I read. So to be clear the "whatever the equivalent to a plunge line as it applies to straight razors" part is known to be wonky on TIs and TI sees it as a feature and not a bug since it is a handmade item., per the supplier's words, not mine. I read this from a TI supplier so it isn't like they haven't been through many of them. Their customers would complain about the inconsistencies of TIs grinds and they would advocate for their customers with TI directly. It sounded like it was pretty common. TI told them they were handmade. I didn't make any of this up on my own. I appreciate your input but what I read is what I read so unless the words they used meant something else, their experience and opinion is just as valid as yours @lindyhopper66 . To me, its all data at this point. I cannot say that their opinion ruined me to TIs or that your counterpoint has made me more likely to go with a new TI. I've only ever heard that they shave amazingly well with maybe the chance to have a cosmetic issue from time to time. Maybe they were razors batch processed on Fridays? I dunno.

Also, I think there is a strong argument to be made that the anatomy of a straight razor and that of a knife is very similar, maybe even razors being a special case of a knife. I imagine the evolution of a straight razor began as a knife.

 

Huge difference between those two. That makes me kind of lean toward the Bergischer Lowe even though its a bit spiky, or try and score a pre-Dovo Bismarck.

That is a beautiful razor. I'll stalk him. That's a great looking razor! I see I missed one you were selling in the BST.

 

I have a Dovo Bismarck 2 and it is one of my favorites. I do not know about the factory edge as mine came honed by the vendor. The razor is easy to hone and maintain, shaves great and looks great.

Rigarazor is some of the best if not the best steel in my den.

 

Still taking suggestions but my wife has asked if she can pick it for me. She usually way over researches things and what I'm hoping to find is that she "gets it" and will pick something for all the right reasons.

I told her dealer's choice.

I could end up with anything from a vintage NOS razor to a 7 day set of customs at this point. The only criteria is that it is new. This could be fun!

 

I hadn’t heard of plunge lines either so I Googled it. I’m not sure they exist on most straights. I also looked at the Thiers-Issard site and their page showing the anatomy of a razor does not refer to one: https://www.thiers-issard.fr/en/content/18-our-razors

As to TI’s, I don’t have one but I have never read any complaints. I suspect the idea of them being hand-made is subject to interpretation. Their own site refers to them as being aided by machines but they consider their products to be 90% handmade. I definitely have never heard of them as being considered artisan.

 

If your looking for a custom Koraat is a great choice. They are easy to with and he is much faster than other artisans. He has a thorough online customization that covers almost anything you could want in a razor.

 

It was a bit funny, I just happened to be watching Dr. Matt357 on YT this morning (linked the video to his name) and he was mentioning how TI is known for bad grinds. Now, he seems to get trouble razors so his incidence of seeing TIs with bad grinds is higher than most. I'm rather confident I could make it work if I did get a wonky one but I'd hate to get all that hone wear on my first new razor. All the good I've heard about how well TIs shave certainly has my desire up. I was eyeballing a TI

Spartacus earlier...that's a damn fine looking razor.

The plunge line is basically where the right and left side of the grind comes together so straights have a plunge line. It may be called something else but it has one.



So, looking at the picture above, drawing 2 shows ideally what a blade should be. The TI issue I read about is that one side has more of the grind than the other. It can still come to a fine edge and still work just as well. It should meet in the middle on an ideal blade (razor, knife, whatever blade has that symmetry).

I'm glad you mentioned Koraat. I've seen them but am not familiar with them enough to give it a serious look. Like Naked Armor for instance, I have no idea if they are good or not. They remind me of a Kriegar but the price is that of a "good" razor but I have no idea if it is indeed a "good" razor or not. I say this to mean that anyone can put a respectable price on a crap razor (not that I'm saying any razor is crap) and I wouldn't know because of unfamiliarity.


Thanks for the ideas and dialogue so far everyone, even the back and forth on the TI is valuable. Please keep any ideas coming.

 

You seem to be stuck on the charts of the grinds listed for knives. Apparently the terms used for knives are different than razors, as is the way they are ground. You need to relearn the terminology, as well as the way Straight Razors are ground. These are just a few of the grinds. You can also get into subsets of grinds, like a Double Concave. Also no stabilizers, single and double stabilizers.

Wedge
Near Wedge
1/4 Hollow
1/2 Hollow
Full Hollow
Extra Hollow

Personally, I would go with a good NOS straight. Or, if you have money to blow, get a custom Koraat, or a Drew Dick .

 

Ok, so lets re-calibrate me on this, please. I need the help.

Hypothetically, razor brand X has uneven grinds from side to side. What would that be called? Say that its a full hollow ground razor but the maker was a bit heavier handed when they profiled the right side (as you are looking down the nose of the blade head on with the spine sitting on the bench) than the left side, in the orientation I mention.

Regardless of what the piece of anatomy is called, I need to know how to use razor words to describe it.

I'm attaching a drawing, please don't judge the artistry...sorry for the orientation.

 

Anyone have an O-1 steel razor and if so, how does it hold up to rusting?