Taming the Feather AC

Discussion in 'Safety Razors' started by riffin, Oct 2, 2009.

  1. riffin

    riffin Active Member

    I'm posting this in Safety Razors 'cuz that's what I'm using!

    I took a Feather AC Pro and trimmed it to the length of my Merkur Progress. Then I put it in with the back edge resting against the posts and tightened it down. The blade was clamped between the base plate and the cap. The other side was empty. After trying a few different settings, I've found that setting it to 5, then continuing past to 1 (I call this 5+1), I get a superb shave! This set up feels very safe. I THE smoothest shave ever, with NO irritation. And it lasts a good long time. Usually when I'm done, I've got some roughness that smooths out with the application of AS balm. I've always figured this was my pores complaining. Well not with the Feather AC.

    I started by trimming a ProGuard with a pair of tin snips. No good! The layers curled under the shearing force and there were nasty corners sticking out. Then I tried using my Dremel with a cutting wheel. They layers didn't curl, but they still separated. So I switched to the AC Pros. I started at a low setting and didn't get great results. I 99% sure the edge doesn't extend out as far a DE blade so the exposure is very low. I worked up to the 5+1 setting. I tried 5+2 this morning and it was a bit too much exposure for me. Still had a great shave, but it was a bit more rough and I got a few nicks.

    I think this is poor man's Cobra but less aggressive and adjustable. I'll give the Super Pros a try too.
  2. Wildtim

    Wildtim New Member

    way way way to much work.
  3. riffin

    riffin Active Member


    It's really the best shave I've had. Perhaps as good as a Feather AC in experienced hands, but much safer. Even safer than a DE blade. It may even compare to a straight shave. FYI, I haven't tried a straight (yet) and I'm not to good with my Feather AC (yet).

    If I decide to keep at it, I'll clamp a stack of blades together and cut several at once. But wasn't too hard. For that first try, I cut three blades, two ProGuards and a Pro. It only took a few minutes each.

    I think it would be really cool to see a Progress clone with a wide head so one doesn't need to trim the blade. Maybe with a single edge, having the "back" edge just clamp. Maybe put some bars that correspond to the cut outs on the blade. Of course it would have to maintain the geometry and adjustability of the Progress. How hard can that be? :D

    Anyway, I tried 5 +1.5 yesterday and got a nice razor burn along with the great shave. I think the blade was getting rough. It was the 5th shave. I'll try the SuperPros tonight at 5+1.
  4. wchnu

    wchnu Duck Season!

    Why not just use a SE razor.,or am I missing something?

  5. riffin

    riffin Active Member

    Great question! The answer is the blade. The AC blades are amazingly sharp. I like my ACD-N razor, but it's going to take a bit to learn to use properly. I've tried AC blades in Schick injector razor and found the set up a bit on the aggressive side. I've also tired several GEM type SEs, but not enough to find the right razor+blade combo. I did this just to see how it would work. I expected it to be a lot like my Schick experience, or the time I load a Durham T-razor with a pair of AC blades. That was even more aggressive. But this combo was on of the smoothest and safest shaves I've had.

    I plan to get a variety of SE blades and work though my GEM collection. I've also got a bunch of wedge razors to try.
  6. wchnu

    wchnu Duck Season!

    Cool.. Good luck on your quest. I have found the the Pella's work great in any of my Se razors from the OCMM to my lather catchers.. and all in between and beyond.
  7. riffin

    riffin Active Member

    UPDATE: Feather AC blades CANNOT be used in Gillette TTOs, and probably other TTOs.

    I trimmed one to fit in a Bostonian (De Luxe). These have nibs in the corners of the cap. They also have a bar/slot blade holder. The bar is much narrower than the post in older models, so the blade REALLY see-saws. Scalloping out the middle of the blade spine would cause the edge to sit too far back, maybe even under the edge of the cap. I found cutting notches in the front corners prevents see-sawing.

    I'm looking at trimming them to fit into a Christy razor. These SEs use s specialized blade design that is no longer made. The AC blades are quite a bit wider than the original blades. I think I can cut notches in the back corners that mate with the holder. By varying the cut, I can vary position the blade edge with respect to the guard. I let you know how that goes.

    I'm also looking at trimming them to fit my Gibbs adjustable. This is a French cousin of my all time favorite razor, the Personna Precision adjustable DE. The Gibbs uses a DE that is ALMOST standard, but need to be notched on the ends. Trimming the ACs is easier than notching a DE to fit in a Gibbs. I'll let you know how that goes too.

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