I haven't double checked, but I'm going to assume that the Reform pen does not have a steel nib? I mean, he wouldn't recommend an ink that he knows would be corrosive, would he?
This is the first I've heard of this. Considering the popularity of Noodler's inks, I'm not going to argue this point here. But I will consider starting a thread on this over at FPN.
Do a search for Noodler's Staining or Noodlers Piston over there first. They've hashed this over for years. I like Noodlers to a limited extent, but only use it in pens in which I won't care if it causes staining. Also, there are a limited number of Noodlers inks that I even like (this is probably not real normal compared to most pen folk). Nathan (the Noodlers guy) has formulated a lot of inks for very specific purposes. If you're left-handed and need an ink that will dry very quickly, he makes that. If you want super saturated colors, he makes that. If you want something that won't freeze in the North end of the Yukon in winter, he makes that. Highlighter inks, waterproof, bulletproof, won't feather, quick drying, lubricating - they're all available. It's just takes time to figure out which is which and then to decide which you may want. I think I mentioned before that Legal Lapis is a favorite of mine (and it's waterproof). In general, I stick with Diamine inks. Vintage Quink and Scrip are also great inks. Waterman ink is also nice. All are generally safe, won't stain your pen, and are fun to use. Watch out though, ink takes up a whole chapter in the AD book... :happy102
I phoned my local Paradise Pen and ordered some ink - I'm having them mail it - shipping was $5, which I figure would be at least what I would spend in gas driving clear to the other side of Columbus. I ordered a bottle of the Mont Blanc blue/black, and off the salesperson's recommendation, a bottle of Private Reserve Midnight Blues quick dry. I don't know if that one will be any good, but I thought I would give it a try. Should be here tomorrow - probably before the pen arrives. I noticed on their website they sell the Pellikano Jr. pens for less than $12. Are they any good? A cheap one to have on hand for normal use?
Pelikano Jr's are great little pens. Lot's of folks use them as knockaround pens or as gifts. I think you'll like the PR midnight blue (very saturated) - didn't realize they're now selling a quick dry formula (PR always took forever to dry). Might have to try some...
Mike, let us know how you like the PR quick dry ink. I have read some bad reviews of it. one of the main complaints is it feathers badly, that's the trade-off for quickdry inks usually.
I'm talking about that hole in the feed on the left. The more I look at it, the more I think it shouldn't be there.
Yeah, I read that review as well AFTER I placed my order. I'm hoping for the best. In general, will these pens and inks work fine on your standard notepad, or do you need something different? Should I go with a higher weight of paper?
A higher weight paper works well with FP. You will get feathering when you use papers of 20lbs or less.
Are we allowed to talk about ball point pens in here? I don't want to get scolded... I have been playing around on the lathe, having a lot of fun with it. Turning Slimlines now, playing around with some basic concepts now like segmenting, but ordered a bunch of Apprentice Classica kits (Sierras) The slimlines have Cross type refills, the Classicas have Parker refills. I wish I knew more about pens. I have used G2s exclusively for about a decade.
So, after reading all of this, I get the feeling I shouldn't have used calligraphers ink in my FP.:ashamed001 Doc.
No sir... Should be ok if it hasn't been long, just flush it out as soon as possible with water repeatedly until it's clear.
I'm ok with it. Although I love FP's, I use a uniball signo RT gel pen more than FP's for everyday use. They write great on any type of paper, dry lightning quick, are retractable, and water/chemical proof. You can use these ballpoints/rollerballs as stepping stones till you work up to turning your own FP's.
Awesome, I do plan on turning a couple FPs eventually, I just want to learn more before I drop that kind of coin on a kit. Here is my current stepping stone, the last few days I have been trying to learn about segmenting. The pen here is over done, I just wanted to see what I could do and play with some variables. The one on the bottom is actually a mechanical pencil. Both are Walnut with Oak segments. These pens are also my first attempts at on-lathe CA finish, using a Boiled Linseed Oil/CA combination. Look for this on my future shaving brushes.
same here... oh, and very nice looking pen & pencil. I was thinking of trying segmenting on a brush, too, but that's a ways down the road methinks
I'm told that hole in the feed of the 9668 nib was a "design feature" (and not a very successful feature, at that). It doesn't look like one. What I do know is that many times on the beginning downstroke of a letter, especially when printing, the ink won't flow. Writing in cursive and starting on the upstroke every time helps, but is not always how I want to write. I can try changing inks to see if that does anything, but it still shouldn't happen.
