The story behind the Essence Razor

Discussion in 'General Shaving Talk' started by PLANofMAN, Jun 22, 2021.

  1. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    Some people have asked about the backstory behind the Essence Razor by Tedalus. For most of us, the razor suddenly appeared, with little fanfare, sprung complete and refined upon the world stage like the dragon's teeth warriors of old, grown to adulthood in a single day.
    Screenshot_20211225-120334_Chrome.jpg
    image credit: Pottertons on DamnFineShave forum

    Manuel Mikasi, the man behind Essence, is not a native English speaker, which is why I have taken the liberty of drawing back the curtain on this project, now that it is on the market.

    For a select few, this has been a project that we have watched for years. For me, since October 1st, 2017. At that time, Manuel showed me CGI renderings of his shavette design. Even then, it was already visually nearly identical to the final production version. If I recall correctly, he had already been working with other people on the design process for several years. (Edit: Most forums purged his posts as self promotion, but we have this one to thank for preserving the historical record.) He started working on this razor design in 2015.

    Herr Mikasi had three goals, and was laser focused on all of them. The first goal was to design a beautiful razor, and he already had that. The second goal was to create a disposable blade razor that is as close to an actual straight razor in look, handling, and shave feel as humanly possible. He wanted to pare away anything that detracted from that goal, to wind up with the distilled "Essence" of a straight razor. The third goal was to make sure every aspect of it was of the highest quality. He wanted nothing to detract from the zen time, the man and razor time.

    The next four years were spent fine tuning every detail.

    In the beginning, was Herr Manuel Mikami, a native German speaker who is a Swiss citizen, a furniture designer at a furniture factory, and is a carpenter. The first desire to build his own razor came after he re-scaled some shavettes for his friends.

    "For me, shaving with a straight razor is like a 'light' session of meditation… In the evening it helps me to calm down after a hard day and a shave in the morning makes me focused and energized for the rest of the day.

    Because I am a carpenter I started to re-scale some shavettes to get my friends as excited [about shaving] as I was… That was the time when I fell in love with the straight razor hobby.

    For me, straight razor shaving is more than just a way to shave…it's my quiet time, and in my humble opinion, it's definitely something every man should at least give it a try once in his life-

    Especially in this fast and hectic world we live in today.

    ...

    For me 99% of all shavettes are just tools. A straight razor has more character.

    My goal was to take the design philosophy, the love for high-quality materials and attention to detail from those high-end custom-made straight razors and combine them with the practical aspects of a modern shavette.

    In my experience, many men love the idea of shaving with a straight razor, but they don't start because they don't want to hone and strop it. Even though that is part of the charm of [owning a straight razor].

    The very sharp blade in combination with a light shavette causes [people] to use more pressure, this often ends in cuts, which is intimidating to a beginner.

    That's why I had the idea that I could invent a razor that eliminates the downside of a shavette.

    ...

    When I shave with a straight razor...it's always a good start to a new day and I love the process [of] getting my stuff ready and shaving. Even if it takes longer with a straight razor, I enjoy the process because I have a beautiful razor, and to be honest, it's also cool to shave with a straight razor... I really, really enjoy it.

    A shavette can't give me this feeling and now I know what the problem is; the shavette is just a cheap "tool" for me. My straight razor did the same job but it felt so different because I had something in my hand that I really felt, the weight [of it], the design. I really felt that someone did this with love and it was such a beautiful piece.

    A shavette is made of plastic & steel and just feels like trash... I shaved with a Feather Shavette once but even this could not give the feeling that I was so desperately looking for."

    -Manuel Mikasi

    (Author's note: edited for brevity and linguistic differences)

    From the beginning, the design incorporated a dovetail to hold the two halves of the blade together. I don't know when the dovetail changed to a guide slot and magnets were chosen for closure. The change was made to slim down the "blade" thickness. Ditto for the metal choice for the blade holder. Only solid stainless steel could be machined thin enough to both replicate a straight razor blade, but be thick enough to both secure and support the blade.
    It also lacked the thumb notch, and the tail was straight. Unfortunately, I don't have pictures of that earlier rendering.

    Sintered stainless, like what is used in the Feather DX, cannot be made thin enough, and the same problem applies to cast zinc alloys. The blade could have been made from aluminum or titanium, but then you run into other issues, durability for aluminum, and non-magnetic, for both.

    IMG_1624373001276.JPEG
    Early Essence Prototype. October 2018

    new_blade_new_podest_v5side.png
    Early Essence CGI rendering. October 2018

    At this time, there were still some design elements that were reminiscent of the Kai Captain and Feather DX folding razors; namely the kink in the handle and the removable blade seam. By November, the final look of the razor was very near to the production model, and the stand had been redesigned. Steps were also taken to lower the weight of the razor and adjust the balance.
    3.png
    CGI rendering prototype. November 2018

    At this point, the razor was still only designed to take Feather Artist club blades and injector blades. DE blade capability was added later, as an alternative option, but it wasn't even considered right off the bat, as this was always intended to be a premium shaving implement, and DE blades in shavettes tend to be harder to use and less comfortable than either injector blades or Artist Club blades. The original plan was to have a seperate sliding "blade" half for DE blades and one for AC/injector blades. The extra part was intended to be a stretch goal add on in the original (cancelled) Kickstarter campaign. Instead, Manuel took a page from IBC's book and incorporated all three blade types into one razor design.

    The closure system was still modeled on the Tondeo TM razor, a great little German shavette with it's own 63mm DE blade design. It's a favorite of German barbers, but seems to get little recognition beyond the barber trade. The even less well known Dorko shavette, which took injector blades, became the initial blade holder inspiration for the Essence.

    The other two features that were intended was a polished stainless blade, and a "custom razor" look.

    By April of 2020, 40 different prototypes had been made, including 3 stainless steel models. Over the previous winter, changes to the design allowed DE blades to be included in the blade types that work with this razor. Sometime during this period, the blade seam was moved from the blade to the tang. Also, the original plan to use powdered steel and molds for the blade holder were scrapped, and Manuel committed fully to having the blades machined, despite the increase in cost. There was no other choice if his razor was to be thin enough to match his vision.

    Scrapping his Kickstarter launch, Manuel decided to fund the production of the initial batch of 333 razors himself.

    The final 6-8 months was devoted to manufacturing the razors, and designing and manufacturing the packaging. An error by the packaging manufacturer led to a 2 month delay before the official launch on June 20, 2021.

    The initial run of 333 razors were designed in Nestlé, Switzerland by Manuel Mikami, machined in the PRC, inspected and hand fit and finished in Switzerland, and assembled in Switzerland.

    In November of 2021, production began on the stands and those were shipped to customers in December 2021. The stands are machined from 17-4 PH stainless, with a rubber bottom to protect countertops. Also rubber bumbers are being installed to prevent the blade from touching the scales. (An early complaint of a few users).
    Tedalus.jpg
    Initial reviews have been overwhelmingly positive. This is a good comparison video of the Essence compared to various shavettes and straight razors, including the DX.


    One of the inspirations for the internals of the Essence:
    disposable-blade-straight-razor_1_37f6e40c3a65049a17c2f9b46ce08418.jpg

    disposable-blade-straight-razor_1_37f6e40c3a65049a17c2f9b46ce08418 (1).jpg
    Vintage Dorko Shavette, circa 1960. One of the better shavette designs, this one was made specifically for injector blades. This is the original inspiration for many of the current high end modern shavette designs.
    IMG_1624912571401.JPEG
    A vintage Tondeo TM, an early original inspiration for the Essence razor. Also, apparently an inspiration for the Focus R21 shavette, going by appearance.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2022
    Keithmax, ewk, gorgo2 and 8 others like this.
  2. gvw755

    gvw755 New Member

    Great write up Ryan, thanks.

    Hopefully Manuel will have enough energy to continue this project past the initial run of the 300+ razors.
     
  3. HighSpeed

    HighSpeed Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the excellent writeup @PLANofMAN.


    Hopefully Manuel will have the cash!


    FWIW I was among the clueless who had no idea that the design goal was to closely mimic the feel of a straight razor. Granted, I apparently came late to the party, and like any human, I may have missed even something said at a later time. OTOH I don't think I would have missed a well broadcasted message like "It's not just beautiful. It's as close as humanly possible to a straight razor experience in a replaceable blade format", or something similar. I offer this feedback because it may help generate future sales.
     
  4. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    This is a project that deserves to succeed. There are people out there that own 9 Feather DX's, and those kind of people will buy this if they know about it. It's just going to take some time to spread the message.

    @Manumik has admitted that words are not his strong suit. Add to that, English is not his first language. I'm not even sure if it's his second or third. He has not yet begun to start marketing the razors. I've given him some suggestions for when that time comes.

    Part of the problem is that he is an unknown entity on the forums. He has kept a low profile, and the development of the razor was also kept very low profile. Case in point, I helped him during the development of the blade loading and closing mechanism, but didn't actually see how it worked until about a week or two ago.

    Well, however close to the vest he has held his cards, it's time to let the world know there's a new shavette in town.
     
  5. Edison Carter

    Edison Carter Well-Known Member

    Well written Ryan.

    I’ve followed this project since I found out about it and am thrilled with what I see. It is truly the fulfillment of Manuel’s goals and commitments.

    When mine shows up, I’ll probably take a stab at making a video on the first use.

    TSD is the only sandbox I play in so I’ll be linking it here for my friends and frienemies.

    I hope it can be educational, informative and useful.

    Bill
     
    Keithmax, snuff, Manumik and 3 others like this.
  6. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    IMG_1624407536245.JPEG
    Third shave outing. Decided to try one of the "better" blade options. Injector/Mini Hair Shaper blades. Vintage Schick Pro blades, made in USA. Look how close that blade is to the end of the razor! A joy to use. Not having to make an educated guess as to where the tip of the blade is, is fantastic, and a huge time saver.

    Edit: you know, the thing I appreciate the most about this razor, is that I don't have to switch to a different angle like I do with the rest of my shavettes. I can use a traditional straight razor angle if I want, with no issues. I feel that improves the comfort level of the shave tremendously.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2021
  7. Manumik

    Manumik Well-Known Member

    That was indeed the goal. Thank you very much for your feedback. To me, this was always extremely important, but I never heard that from anyone that this would be something they would pay a lot of attention to.
    I'm more than excited to pick it up again and give it another try to communicate all the benefits of ESSENCE more clearly!
     
    Keithmax, snuff, PanChango and 2 others like this.
  8. Manumik

    Manumik Well-Known Member

    Thank you very much for sharing the story! Brilliant! I will dig out some older pictures from the design process and share them later if there is an interest.
    The reason I didn't share a lot upfront in public was that my post constantly got deleted because of "self-promotion". When I started to reach out to individuals on private message I got banned from the Badger&Blade forum because of "market research".
    It was frustrating so I completely stopped using forums and started working with local shaving enthusiasts and barbers.
     
    Keithmax, snuff, Leo K. and 6 others like this.
  9. HighSpeed

    HighSpeed Well-Known Member

    I don't know what happened in the past Manuel, but I'm sure a great many shavers will be paying very good attention to you now. Congratulations!
     
    PLANofMAN, Manumik and Edison Carter like this.
  10. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    I'm interested.

    Also as a bump, I added a bit more of the backstory and history to the original post. Feel free to correct any mistakes I've made.
     
    Manumik and snuff like this.
  11. Edison Carter

    Edison Carter Well-Known Member

  12. HighSpeed

    HighSpeed Well-Known Member

    Excellent video Bill! I was especially impressed by two things. First, the shot at ≈8:07, where you compare the spine thickness of the DX and the Essence. IMO that picture is worth a thousand words. Second, your explanation - showing how spine thickness affects shaving angle to make the Essence much more like a straight - was clear and compelling.

    Congratulations! Enjoy your Essence.
     
  13. snuff

    snuff Well-Known Member

    There where some forums where I posted about this razor and the messages where taken down and I wasn't promoting anything just informing about this razor. That's the name of the game, some forums are run by people who sell shaving stuff and if the product isn't in there catalog .....

    But if something is good it will travel around the shaving communities no matter what. thanks PLANof MAN for the background information and Manumik for the opportunity to be part of the whole process.

    btw my personal preferences as far as blades go for the Essence:

    Feather Super Professional
    Schick Proline P-30
    Feather Professional
    Kai mild

    Wizamet Super iridium
    Polsilver super iridium
    Personna lab blue
    Gillette Rubie Plus
    Gillette Platinum
    Feather new hi-stainless

    Personne injector
    Schick injector
     
    HighSpeed, Edison Carter and Manumik like this.
  14. Manumik

    Manumik Well-Known Member

    Speechless! Thank you so much for this awesome video and your kind words!
    I'm so happy to see that Essence brings you so much joy. It was always the goal to make a shavette that looks and feels like a real straight razor (or as close as humanly possible).
    Therefore I'm looking forward to your first shave. :eatdrink047:
     
    HighSpeed, Edison Carter and snuff like this.
  15. IAmTheJody

    IAmTheJody Gillette-i Master Staff Member

    I'll be the party pooper... Can't speak for other forums but there are vendor rules in place here - TSD doesn't sell anything - and there have been a couple of times where that line has been brushed up against in regards to this razor. There is a difference between a review and a full on 30 minute TV infomercial about any product from a non-supporting vendor, even if it is not the vendor themselves who started the threads. This is the second thread about this razor, in 2 different sections.

    Carry on...
     
    snuff and Edison Carter like this.
  16. Manumik

    Manumik Well-Known Member

    forum
    /ˈfɔːrəm/
    Aussprache lernen
    Definitionen nach Thema filtern


    noun
    1. 1.
      a meeting or medium where ideas and views on a particular issue can be exchanged.
     
    brit and Edison Carter like this.
  17. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    Not quite the same thing as a private forum, which this is. What you don't see is the tireless work of the moderators removing all the spam posts by Chinese vendors hawking cheap razors, skin creams and other junk.

    All Jody was saying is to keep the spam pollution to a minimum, no matter how excited a person gets over a razor, it's no reason to drown out the rest of the forum, or to abuse the forum by turning it into a personal advertisement vehicle.
     
  18. Ron R

    Ron R Well-Known Member

    Very nice designed razor and you see the quality in the workmanship. Great write up also and the history and why some of us enjoy this hobby. The initial cost is high so it was not a huge money maker for Manuel Mikasi but he loves this razor to go to this lengthy venture.
     
    PLANofMAN, Keithmax, Manumik and 2 others like this.
  19. IAmTheJody

    IAmTheJody Gillette-i Master Staff Member

    Hat tip and thank you. You got what I was saying.
     
  20. A CUT ABOVE

    A CUT ABOVE New Member

    I find your comment about the Feather shavettes to agree with how I feel. I took my DX scales off and custom made wood scales. A much better results. We may have to come us with a new name for this class of razor. It's not a shavette. How about a RAZETTE?
     
    PLANofMAN likes this.

Share This Page