The "what is" and " how to" thread for the Rolls Razor

So I've got a few questions

Gregindallas what do you use to polish the cases and blades to such a high sheen and does it remove small scratches

From what I hear there's only two handle types the collapsible and the one that threads in and out but I appear to have a diffrent style I have some that thread out but some that look the same but don't unscrew and the blade needs to be forced in the side a small ball bearing depresses to hold it

Has anyone tried removing the hone and replacing it with something of the same thickness and glueing lapping film on it as I have a few and could fix six or so lids like this to go through a progression of films from 12-0.3 micron to sharpen the blades

 

Oh and one more thing how can you tell the diffrent models of the imperial apart what I mean is the #1 #2 #3 I have some that say 2 on the lids so I assume this is the #2 but others are blank so how can you tell ?

 

King camp,

I think your idea of lapping film is a very interesting and have considered doing it myself. I use this method very successfully for sharpening wood working tools and blades. If your Rolls Mechanism is working correctly then the only issues is getting a flat and combined thickness substrate as the hone to attach the film. One item I was considering is industrial fiberglass sheet commonly known as G-10 which typically is quite flat and reasonably machinable. But it may need back spacers to get to the correct thickness. It can be purchased here:http://www.mcmaster.com/#grade-g-10-garolite-sheets/=kz3nu6

I am curious if your shave handle in question is corroded together preventing unscrewing?

Good luck
Swigman

 

So I fixed my first broken hone today and came out GREAT! Bought another Rolls and the seller left the blade unattached and it cracked the stone in shipping. I used the crazy glue idea on this thread and glued on a sheet of glass. After glued, I used a razor blade to gently remove excess and lightly wet sanded the stone with 400 grit wet. You can almost not even see where the two pieces were joined and hones perfectly! THANKS for the idea!

 

I use Rubbing Compound for the scratches and Polishing Compound for finishing and shine. Both come in cans and are pastes. The Brass/nickel cases are soft but expect to use some elbow grease.



Your 3 types of handles are:
1. Collapsible
2. 2 piece
3. Rusted shut 2 piece (I have a couple of those myself)

Lapping film, glued to balsa wood and cut to fit the door has been used to good effect by others.

 

The diff between a series 1 & 2 is in the gear track (see pictures on page 1). Series 1's barely had one. Series 3's are stainless steel.

 

Sorry I missed that I see now I have all three iterations of the gear track but some imperials are made of aluminum also would i be able to tell the stainless,aluminum and brass plated apart I can see the plating wearing off some of the plated brass ones I have so I can tell there brass

 

Here is my collection.... Just bought a very rare Rolls 4 blade holder with new blades, a new old stock Rolls bakelite soap stick container and a new old stock Rolls Bakelite soap dish. Just need to get a rolls mirror and 5 or 6 more Rolls and my collection will be complete! The one on the right that is not boxed is my daily shaver...

 

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(sorry, just swiping the drool off the keyboard...)

Um, that is to say I kinda like your collection of Rolls Razors

 

LOL! Thanks! I am really not sure how many of these will be enough for me! I think I want one that represents every packaging offer they had... My wife is sick of me talking about these and the fact that I cannot wait to go to bed every night because I am looking forward to the shave in the morning!

 

So I bought the compounds you said I tried polishing a viscount with a cotton rag for about 20 minutes and it appeared I got nowhere same for a blade is there any special way to do this I tried it on some de razors and it brought them to a mirror finish so am I doing something wrong or am I just not persistent enough ?

 

I use Mother's Magnesium and Aluminum Polish to clean the blades. I also take the hone out of the case and hone the blade by doing circles clockwise and counterclockwise and back and forth and the the typical one direction, flip and go the other direction. I use the hone dry.

I have thought on honing on lapping film, because I use straight razors and hone them on lapping film. You could still finger push the blade on lapping film placed on smooth flat surface, like glass. I haven't had great success with honing in the case the standard way.

If the polish doesn't work, you might need some wet/dry sandpaper. Cut small square and use a wine cork to push the sandpaper around. I never had a problem with just using polish, but my blades weren't rusted.

I had trouble with one of my handles and sprayed WD-40 on it and then used a dryer to heat it up and kept pushing it up and down until it loosened enough. The two part handles can be dangerous. I was shaving with one this week and the blade dropped out and gave me quite a cheek cut. So I'm sticking with the one piece handles. They can be a pain going on the blade, though.

 

Maybe I'm just trying to get them to too high of a polish this is the best I have gotten a couple after scrubbing with the turtle wax
Also the reason I'm so reluctant to believe they are rusted two pice handles which they very well may be is this the six on the left wont come apart while the nine on the right will and if you look very closely you will see the ones I can't open have shorter end caps that won't screw out like the other ones i am able to open and also have smaller hooks to hold the blade then the others like this

 

I read somewhere. I don't remember where that making a strong but not saturated solution of sugar and water, putting the rusted object in it in a closed container (to keep flies away I imagine) for several days, will dissolve rust.
I have never tried it but don't see how it could hurt.
If you supersaturate the solution you will get sugar syrup.

Mickey

 

I have four Rolls Razors myself all my handles look just like your handles and they are all two piece handles. I would suggest soaking the handles that won't unscrew in some kind of oil made for unscrewing frozen nuts and bolts like "liquid wrench". The collapsible handle does looks different from the two piece ,not by alot, but there is a difference. There is an example in this thread with the two handles side by side...

 

A magnet will not stick to the stainless steel or aluminum cases.
It will, however, stick to the nickel on the plated brass ones.

Mickey

 

Thanks I actually found someone who appears to have bought all of rolls remaining stock and I'm thinking of purchaseing it he has hundreds of rolls razors and new blades strops hones and such would there be any interest in any parts or whole razors from others here ?

 

Strops, Hones, blades and yes to new razors. Prices??

 

I get $30.00 for NEW blades in Metal or Bakelite cases. 1 - $8.00 for used Hones. I get 9.00 for used and $15.00 for new.Strops 2- 8.00 for used.Handles $9.00-12.00 retractable I get 15.00 each. I have hundreds of rolls razors aluminum silver plates stainless chrome.9.00 up have many cases paper and solid types. I want $0000 plus shipping, for the whole lot. I need to know where you live....

This is exactly what he told me his prices were when I go look at the lot on Friday ill figure what I feel would be appropriate prices and if I should buy it but I feel his figures may be good of course ill have to figure a price for the whole razors ill probably just look at nos prices on eBay though

 

The collection is growing!