Discussion in 'Straight Razors' started by DaltonGang, Sep 25, 2016.
Now, that's a great looking stone, with character. Thanks for sharing.
I need some advice regarding honing. Sometimes I feel that it is almost impossible to get a razor sharp enough. I use the following set up of stones:
And finally stropping on Balsa wood + leather strop.
All stones always flattened on a glass plate with wet sand paper.
I have tried out with different pressures ( never hard ) but still some razors never get sharp enough.
Tips and tricks would be appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
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Thank you Scott!
Maybe you need more pressure.
You want to feel like you are removing some metal.
If you are starting with an 8k stone, more than likely your bevel isn't set correctly. Invest in good bevel setters. A 320 grit stone for really damaged edges, then a 1000, and 3000 to set the bevels. The bevels are where most of the work is at. If you want super sharp, and smooth, get a well known brand at around 15k+. Major rule in honing, the higher the grit, the less pressure is used. In the final stages, only the weight of the blade is all the pressure that is used.
That could be the problem, I check with magnifying glass and I think it is almost impossible to get an even “grind” along the edge. Have also tried to put the stones on the side and honed with X moves with some better results. Have to try with some more pressure....
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6/8 Rader Razor
Just finished honing on the 8, 12 and 15 K stones. She'll get her first shave tomorrow morning.
Had quite a few problems honing this one. This is the third attempt.
Decided to start from the beginning. Dragged the edge across the side of the stone a few time. Then started grinding out the old bevel using clock wise circular rotations on the 400 grit stone.
Took my time. Lost count of the number of back and forth from one side to the next.
When satisfied of the edge developing, moved to the 1K grit and started the honing.
Kept an eye on the edge using the marker test. Everything was looking good so the next steps were the 3K, 8K, 12K and 15k stones. The honing and stropping on linen, rough leather and smooth leather developed an very sharp edge. But, this is the third time honing this razor. The first two were just as sharp. Unfortunately, it did not shave well.
I apologize for not recalling who the helpful member is but, they provided a really great piece of advice. I hope you read this, Thank you for your advice. It was a tremendous help!
The push test; Using packing peanuts to test the edge. I did just that. Checking for pressure needed to "PUSH" the edge into cutting the foam allowed me to estimate if the edge was sharp enough to move from the 15K to the strop. Then from linen to rough and rough to smooth leather.
After enough laps on the smooth leather, the razor barely needed a touch before slicing through the foam.
Now for the morning shave to see if this latest work proves successful.
Good day everyone.
6/8 Gottlieb Hammesfahr Solingen Foche
Nice Blade. Has a good weight and shape. Will see how she shaves after it takes a few hundred laps on the strop.
Touched up my Dovo Bismarck, one of the good ones. Dovo can make a great razor if they want to, and like all modern European razors, the factory scales are … not so good. My version weighs 39g and handles like an M.K. 32.
Oops, 49g. I use an iPad, lol.
Joseph Rodgers & the still unknown mark
A miss mash of stones for these two...
Suehiro for the 1k, Naniwa for the 4k, Shapton for the 8k and a finish with the Thuringian.
The Rodgers is a full wedge, and could probably use a regrind, but nothing a little (or a lot of ) tape can’t handle.
Two very nicely behaved old English blades... Geo. Wostenholm and a Joseph Rodgers
Same progression: bevel crafted on the Suehiro 1k & Naniwa 4k (pictured), refined on the Shapton 8k, and finished on the Thuringian.
Pieces of regal character!
Thanks Bill. The embellishments on the scales were what sucked me in.
Simmons Hardware Co.
Royal King Cutter
This is one of @John Beeman 's razors. It was part of a swap, to be returned to him. I restored this one, but left it with a little patina.
The edge was butter knife dull, so I took it to the Norton 320 grit stone. A long time later, the Pre-bevel popped up. This felt like it was very very hard metal. Next to the Norton 1K. After it was finished there, I I looked under the Lighter Jewelers Loupe. Crap!!!!!!. Chipping everywhere, some substantial. New tape, and a healthy killing of the edge, and I restarted, with even lighter pressure. Double Crap!!!! More chipping, But not as much as before. Twice more, I killed the edge, because of chipping. Finally, with a light touch, I got past the 1k. It was very very slow going though the rest. I used my Welsh Slate Stones and several Naguras(for slurry), to finish the razor.
In the end, I tested the scratch patterns of two Escher Thuringian Hones. The one with the handle puts a nice finish on it, but the other one(on the bottom) takes it to a much higher level.
It took a very very sharp edge, after some time on the strop.
Another of @John Beeman 's razors, to be sent back. This was restored, and a small nick was removed, early on.
I will say, I have a couple of Griffon razors, and they are very high quality.
This razor was much easier than the Simmons, I had also honed. This one easily went through the Hones, without a hiccup. Finished on Welsh Slate Stones and Eschers Thuringians. After stropping, it is scary sharp.
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