What Straight Razor Have You Honed Lately????

Discussion in 'Straight Razors' started by DaltonGang, Sep 25, 2016.

  1. Steve56

    Steve56 Hone Hoarder

    Those are some swoopy beauties Tom!
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  2. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Thanks Steve! :eatdrink047:
  3. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Took a chance on a couple small Okudo stones, thinking they could be a hone or a nagura… so time to play.

    This one was sold as an Okudo Tenjo Suita, and I loved the pattern. Started the JNat journey with a handheld CKTG Ozuku Koppa that I sold to a friend to start his journey, and I missed this smaller option.

    1 3/4” by 3 3/4” is about as small as I have gone… reminding me of my Coticules. Started the bevel set with the Suehiro 1k and then ran through the Shapton 4k then 8k before jumping to this one.
    1 razor 1 shave does not tell a full story but the Pritzlaff Hardware had a very nice face feel. Time to get more edges!
    Happy honing.
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  4. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Edges #3&4 off the Okudo above…
    Tornblom and the new to me Tony Milton Kamisori
    Tornblom was/is a slight mess so took a bit on the Suehiro 1k, and then both enjoyed their time on the Shapton 4k then 8k before finishing on the pictured Okudo.
    Happy honing.
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  5. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    The second of the two small stones was this Okudo Tomae. Seems a tad softer but I enjoyed the feel. Same progression leading up to it as the other stone, but the King William era W&B required quite a few layers of tape. :)

    The Shapleigh Hardware was an absolute pleasure to sharpen.
    Happy honing.
  6. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    On that Wade & Butcher, I'm thinking a seriously Concave Hone would be the way they honed it, in the old days.
    I had one similar to that, and I couldn't get an edge on it, even with a boatload of tape.

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  7. Rusty blade

    Rusty blade The Good Humor Man

    I got ambitious this week and restored and honed 5 recent antique store finds. The crack on the scale of the McPherson Brothers is stable...no movement. All honed on my Naniwa stones.
    3 straight razors.jpg two straight razors.jpg
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  8. Zykris

    Zykris Well-Known Member

    Russian blade. Touched up the edge a bit. More like a do over. Set the edge on 1k Diamond then flipped to my Welsh stones. Got a real nice edge on it.
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  9. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Continuing to add Okudo edges to the quiver…
    Two Wade & Butchers and not really sure what the one in the back is, but guessing German made for the US market.
    The feel of these two little Okudo hones are wonderful.
    Happy honing.
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  10. lottenhem

    lottenhem Well-Known Member

    Two more honed from the $5 each acquisition. Bengall Sheffield and one No name, probably Solingen.
    The Bengall was a little pain to get a good edge on. Almost as hard as the Clas T. Starting with Shapton HR 500…

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  11. lottenhem

    lottenhem Well-Known Member

    Rabinor Tagore TULA 600 6/8” and CVH MK No.30. Have tried out the latest 30 I have purchased but have to adjust the spine, it’s a little bit “curved”.

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  12. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    That Tula is.a nice.looking razor. :happy088:
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  13. lottenhem

    lottenhem Well-Known Member

    Thanks! Sorry @DaltonGang I have completely forgotten your name… it was in a good condition and it didn’t need so much effort to get it sharp. I must say I prefer Solingen razors before Sheffield. Just my opinion.

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  14. gssixgun

    gssixgun At this point in time...

    Supporting Vendor
    A few special customs came to visit snowy North Idaho this week



    This one, an AiAi from Japan is just so sweet finished on my Nakayama

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  15. Paul76

    Paul76 Well-Known Member

    I have a few razors from solingen with the same spine pattern, which are all made by Ern. If you look really closely at the picture of yours you can see the remains of the r and a slight bit of the e also. They are excellent shavers.
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  16. lottenhem

    lottenhem Well-Known Member

    Thanks Paul! I totally agree with you regarding that they are excellent shavers. I also admit that you have far better eyes than I have

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  17. Steve56

    Steve56 Hone Hoarder

    Here’s a problem razor that might make a good discussion of honing a wonky razor. It’s an orihi kamisori and it’s bent/warped. I do not know how it will turn out yet, but mu guess is that I can hone it with a straight edge but it will be a little narrower. The bottom part of an orihi is basically a wedge. the top part is forged at an angle that makes a steeper angle on the ura side.In the first image, the left side is the omote, the right side is the ura. This is a two-piece forging, most of the omote and the top of the ura are soft iron.


    The second and third image show the problem, the diamond plate I’m using is only hitting the middle on the ura, you don’t even need Sharpie to see it, and on the omote it’s only hitting the ends, the heel quite badly.My strategy was to use a lot of tape on the omote to keep the bevels thin at least until the stone hit all the edge, then I can pull however much tape that I want off and reset the bevel with reasonable assurance that I won’t have a lot of wear on the omote spine when the stone isn’t even hitting all the edge. This kind of a strategy can also be used on frowns, wonky Dovos, and chip removal. Alternatively, I could have begun by simply honing knife-style at about 30 degrees until the stone hit all the edge, then proceeding.

    DFCCA36C-ED86-4ED7-A134-8741F2DDD474.jpeg 29E041D6-807C-45B2-B9D2-020416D11E21.jpeg

    I began by using a 1k Shapton Glass HR to see if I could straighten the SPINE a bit, ala a Gold Dollar, and the spine is actually reasonably straight, I got a slight, straight even wear pattern on the ura and a slightly less straight and even wear pattern on the omote. Then 3 layers of electrical and one layer of Kapton on the omote and 1 layer of Kapton on the ura.

    After quite a while on the omote, I had the plate hitting all the edge - barely. The steel is do hard it makes a Tornblöm look like cookie dough, that’s the reason for the diamond plates and Shapton HR. I flipped it over and worked until I had it hitting the edge on the ura.


    Whew, glad that’s done. Not so fast, when I honed the ura where only the center was initially hitting, that reduced the width of the razor slightly in the middle, so when I went back to the omote, the plate is no longer hitting the middle - again. So this is going to be an iterative process I believe, but I’m done for the night.

    Glen does wonky ground Dovos by honing to a slight smile I seem to recall, but a smiling kamisori would look odd.

    I also realize that I may well have to do some refinishing on it when all is said and done. It’s been a real PITA, but this is the way that you learn how to fix things with minimal impact on the razor.

    I’ll update
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  18. lottenhem

    lottenhem Well-Known Member

    I think the best way would have been to adjust the spine by taping the edge and grind down the spine until it is parallel with the edge. I know that many people are allergic to “hurt” the razor and get cosmetic damage to the razor. However Gents, it’s tools we are speaking of….
    Just my Viking opinion
    If the razor isn’t in order with all angle’s, adjust it until it is. I have personally stopped using tape for the spine.

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  19. Steve56

    Steve56 Hone Hoarder

    Great minds think alike Hans, that’s actually what I did - see the paragraph right under the third image.

    The problem I believe is that the ‘spine’ is all unhardened iron, and below the spine is a section where extremely hard steel is forge welded to the soft iron. I think that when the razor was cooled/tempered, the bottom section with two dissimilar metals warped. So the spine where the razor hits the hone, where the arrows point, is straight, but the section below is warped. The red line represents the hard steel.

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  20. lottenhem

    lottenhem Well-Known Member

    OK, missed that information. My Kamisori is opposite the right hand side according to your sketch is “flat” and have a equal grind along the edge. It’s the left hand side that has to be straightened up. First picture the hollow side.

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