I Had Another Wee Test Drive with My Newly Aquired Naniwa Professional 1 K Stone after Yesterdays Escapade with a Dud Factory NOS CV Heljestrand SE Hollow Ground Blade..There is No Bevel on these Blades from the Factory So to Speak & One had a Bit of Corrosion on the Edge..I Played Around with Slurry from a Few Laps with the 320 Grit Lapping Plate..The Professional 1 K Stone is a Lot Harder than the 1 K Super Stone for Sure.. For Me the Professional 1 K Stone isn't a Better Stone But it will handle a Number of Blades with Less Wear & Tear than the Softer 1 K Super Stone I Reckon that Haven't Been Honed before like these Factory Fresh Blades..I Didn't Notice Much of a Difference in the Scratch Marks either as this a Very Smooth Cutting Stone...All in All..I Like it & I Got it to Take any High Volume Work Away from My Treasured 1 K Superstone that I Want to Keep for Re Hones on SRs that Don't Require More Work.. After Setting the Bevels on the 1 K Professional Stone..I Honed these Two NOS CV Heljestrand Hollow Ground Blades On a Naniwa Super Stone Progression..3k 5k, 8k, 12k & 1 Micron Lapping Film on a Cushion as My Finishing Hone..10 Sets on 0.5 Micron Chro/Ox + 10 Sets on 0.2 Micron Red Rhodium...These Blades Took a Darn Wicked Edge & the Bevels Shine like a Mirror..There is Hardly a Tell Tale Hone Mark on these Factory Fresh NOS Blades.. Billy..
Honed this french faux today.was a one stone honing on the coti.started with the shapton 1.5k but found it dificult to hit the whole edge.espesialy the toe and heel.i am not very good at roling x strokes etc.so honed with half x on the coti.starting with a thick slurry and diluted as i progressed.think i got it righttest shave will be tomorrow.
I started honing a J.A.Henckels 70 1/2 yesterday. I got the Bevel set, with the 1k, and massaged a chip out of the blade. I rolled the dice on this one and got it for a song, probably because of the tiny chip. The King 1k stone did a great job, worked the chip out, and set the bevel, in around 50 minutes. it was tree topping every hair, at the 1k level. WOW!! I will say, that this was one of the easiest blades to hone. everything on it was perfectly straight. The 3k/8k synthetic fine tuned the edge. The 8k, 12k, 15k, Welsh Slate stones gave it the perfect edge. Before: During: Final result:
Ive tried to slurry, but those are some hard stones. Maybe a DMT would work up a slurry. I have just used water, mixed with dish soap, to keep things unplugged, and slick. Since I haven't used other finishing stones, I like the way these work. I'm under the mindset of using something until you learn it, to its utmost ability. So far I have been able to get a proper edge on almost everything I've tried to hone. There are a couple that have frustrated me, but these have excessive wear, and I'm not giving up.
Sorry to hear that, about the Faux Frameback. Before you use the Welsh Stones, make sure it's lapped well with 220-300 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The slurry stones that come with the stones will polish the stones too much. Toss them. Just my opinion. I would love to find a softer slurry stone to use with the Welsh Stones, just to see if it speeds up the way the stones work.
It's a little trye and error.sometimes i end upp rehoning if i'm not satisfied.it's a good way of learning, both stones and different steel qualities.
so did a full re hone.went back to my shaptons and played a little with rolling x strokes and think i got the hang of it. nice even sharp along the whole edge.did a full progress from 1,5 ,5 ,8 og 12 k before finishing on a purple welsh slate. used the 1x8 that i had aj_1000 made for me.the narrow hone made it very easy to hone the smile.it`s much sharper now.cutting hht like nothing excited to shave with it tomorrow.
Any of you guys use the Lynn Abrams modular paddle strop? I just got mine and was looking for some pointers.
Yup, both me and @mrchick have them. Not much to it. Lynn does have a refresh video that shows how to use the diamond spray on the felt pad but it basically boils down to hitting it with spray three or so passes at a distance of 6 or 12 inches - more or less - and letting dry overnight before using. As to the normal leather I found that resting it on my knee and changing the angle - e.g. up or down and experimenting with how far or close I held it made it easy to find the most natural stroke.
gave this wostenholm another run on the hones as well. it was not as smooth as i would like,and after i re honed the french faux i suspected i use too little time on the bevel setter with this heavier grinds. this is a 1/4 hollow and the faux is a wedge. normally i hone til it cut arm hair,but this time i staid on the bevel setter til it felt super smooth at the hone. then progressed to higer grit. the result was much much better as Billyfergie always says "the magic happens on the bevel setter" that is absolutely true as it has a ever so slightly warp ,i finished on my welsh slate 1x8 on this too.
Aye..The Bevel Hone is the Foundation..My Martial Arts Teacher Hammers that Home as I have Done with My Students..Like Martial Arts the Bevel Hone is the Foundation Work..In the West Culturally We are Kinda Programmed to Always be in a Hurry to Move On Far Too Quickly to the Next thing Or Next Level when we Haven't Accomplished the Foundation..In My Experince its Not Always an Easy thing for Folks to Overcome.. Billy..
got this Joseph Elliot in the mail today,so took it straight to the hones.don`t know the age of it so if anybody have an idea i would love to know.it`s a wedge with a barbers notch.the blade it in good condition but the scales have a few cracks,seems to have taken a nice edge,but the shave test to morrow will prove or disapprove that.
did a full re hone on this ford & medley arrow razor to fix a issue at the toe.now it`s cutting allonge the whole cutting edge. test shave tomorrow.
This was one I was looking forward to getting, and honing. I finally had a chance this morning. It took a beautifully sharp edge, without any issues. The steel was very tough, and felt like Swedish steel. So, it took a little longer with the stones. It started out with a tiny amount of rust towards the heel, that honed out easily. I had to kill the edge, three times while working the rusted portion out. Under the 60x loupe, I could see micro chips forming, so I decided to kill the edge, and that worked. The usual progression of 1k King stone, 3k/8k Unknown stone, 8k 12k 15k Natural Welsh Slate. Finished off with 10 strokes with Chromium Oxide Linen strop, and about 100 strokes on the Illinois 827 Leather strop. Hair popper all the way. Japanese 泰平 TAIHEI 東京 13/16
Another Hone job today. Japanese KYOEI Extra Steel(Extra hard Steel, or Extra PITA Steel). This was a pain, from day one. I think I've tried 3-4 times to get this thing to take a good edge. It starts off well enough. It only cost $10.50, and looks good, except for a little spine wear. Well, I tried several times, over the past month, to get a good edge on it. Nothing would work, until today. I used three layers of tape on the spine, due to wear. after a while on the 1k, I looked under the loupe, and saw it was setting the bevel slowly but beautifully, except for one side, on the toe end. Odd that the other side had no issues. so, I applied pressure and torqued the blade, during each progression, all the way to the 15k. Bingo, success!!!!. After the stropping, the edge was perfectly hair popping sharp, down the entire edge. Sometimes brute force is needed, as is a lot of tape.