Oh ok. I liked to soak my brush to soften up the boar/badger hair and the top of the handle that meets the knot stays under water for 5ish minutes
I assume you're talking about 'Tung Oil'? Teak oil is just that - an oil for teak. The two main oils for teak are tung oil and linseed oil. Tung oil tends to have extra hardeners, and linseed oil doesn't. That's the only real difference between it and boiled linseed oil (which, BTW, does NOT usually have extra crap in it, unless the MSDS sheet says so). Linseed oil doesn't become a hard finish, and teak oil becomes a hard finish. I prefer soft finishes to most of my hardwoods - but that's just me. So, if you use teak oil, you may still want to put a coat of oil based polyurethane on top of it If you use linseed oil, you'll have to wait longer for it to be non-tacky (unless you use hardeners, such as japan drier) Quote stolen from another site, which was taken from an unattributed site (or I'd go there). Interestingly enough, apparently some Tung Oil isn't. https://www.minwax.com/document/MSDS/en/027426475007 65% Med. Aliphatic Hydrocarbon Solvent, and .2% Cobalt 2-Ethylhexanoate. I'm assuming the other 34.8% is baloneium.
